Which metals do you think are the rarest in the world?

I am pretty sure that you would be able to pick at least two of them.

Gold and Platinum.

They are fairly common place in our society today, and have a fair amount of history behind them with many ancient cultures being established on their finding the metals and their ability to trade the metal with other cultures. Some of the other ones on the list I have my doubts that you would have even heard of them before, even myself working with precious metals all day every day haven’t even heard of some of them!  Click on the link below to find out just which metals they are and if you have heard of them before.

http://www.curiousnotions.com/home/metals.asp

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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Diamonds are one of the most brilliant and beautiful elements found on earth. And, because they are also rare, a natural diamond can also be very valuable, depending upon the quality of the diamond. To help jewellers and you to better compare quality in diamonds, the GIA – the benchmark in diamond grading throughout the world – developed a universal grading system and the 4C’s.

The 4C’s includes cut, clarity, colour and carat weight. Each of these four characteristics is important and interrelated as they are used to determine the diamond’s value. It is commonly assumed that clarity is the most important of the 4C’s, yet colour and cut actually have a more profound affect on the visual appearance of the diamond than most diamond consumers understand.

In a series of four posts, we will discuss the 4C’s and their impact on the brilliance and subsequently, the value of your diamond.

For this first post, we will take a look at the cut of the diamond and the importance of this C in the diamond’s value. The first important point in the cut of the stone is that is refers to your diamond’s proportions and angles more than the shape of the diamond you are considering for purchase.

The cut of any diamond will have three attributes:

  1. Brilliance – the total light reflected from a diamond
  2. Fire – the dispersion of light into the colours of the spectrum
  3. Scintillation – the flashes of light captured when the diamond is moved.

It doesn’t matter if a diamond is round, marquise, pear, princess or other any other shape, it gets its brilliance and scintillation by how exact the cutting and polishing of the diamond facets adhere to the ideal proportions. This process is actually worked out mathematically to deliver the optimum “Fire and Brilliance”. It also determines the amount of light that enters through the top of the diamond to be reflected and dispersed back through its top.

If a diamond is perfectly cut so that all angles and proportions are within correct guidelines, the light that enters the diamond is dispersed properly back through the diamond’s top facets. In a traditional brilliant round cut diamond, 58 facets are each precisely cut and defined and can be as small as two millimeters in diameter.

This precision is essential in the cut of the diamond or it wouldn’t be nearly as beautiful and would fail to disperse the light properly to achieve the brilliant fire display. Consider a science experiment you may have done in high school in which the light from a torch was pushed through a prism of glass or Perspex and on the other end the light would break up into the colour spectrum.

This is the exact process diamonds use to disperse and break up the light into the “Fire” that is visible when it is moved and rotated. In understanding this experiment, you understand how the “Fire and Brilliance” are achieved when the diamond cut meets the exact mathematical proportions and angles to achieve MAXIMUM sparkle.

If the stone is cut too shallow or too deep, the light entering through the top of the stone would not be allowed to escape through the bottom of the diamond and the beauty of the stone is at the very least dampened and most often lost.

Once you have a clear understanding of the importance of the cut of the diamond, you can then focus on its shape. Most diamond jewelry relies on the round brilliant diamond, and all other shapes are known as fancy. While cushions, marquise, pear, oval and emerald cuts are more traditional fancy shapes, cushions, hearts, triangles, briolette and others are gaining popularity as consumers aim to try something new.

Cut is easily referred to as the ‘forgotten’ C, but without your focus on how well the diamond is cut, it cannot meet its maximum brilliance. A diamond cannot be cut for weight or shape alone and if the stone doesn’t catch your eye or flash in the light, this is most likely due to a poor cut rather than poor quality in the stone.

The way the diamond is cut to reflect its brilliance is as important as the colour of the diamond you choose. Essentially, the cut and colour form the “heart and soul” of your diamond. Join us next time for a further look into the 4C’s as we examine Colour.

Diamond Cut - these are some of the most important factors to consider when buying a diamond.

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For those of you who are new the process of selecting and purchasing a natural diamond, the idea of a diamond certificate may be a foreign one. In all fairness, if you don’t understand the information within the certificate or why it is important, whether or not a diamond purchase includes the grading certificate may hold little value.

Any purchase of a diamond of any significant size should carry with it an independent certificate outlining all of the points you can find below. Generally speaking, most – if not all – diamonds of 0.30pts and above are automatically sold with a certificate due to the costs involved and the likelihood of recovering these costs; diamonds smaller than 0.30pts generally are sold without a certificate.

As you become more educated in the process throughout this post, you will come to understand what information such a certificate contains and why it is an important inclusion in any natural diamond purchase.

Price

When you are making an investment in a natural diamond, you want to have a clear understanding of what you are buying and what it is worth. Natural diamonds are priced according to their actual quality grading as written on their certificates. If you walk away from a natural diamond purchase without a certificate in hand from a respected, independent laboratory, you are not getting the quality you wanted to buy.

The characteristics of the natural diamond can have a major influence on the price of the diamond. Many of these characteristics are unseen by the naked-eye, but will be identified by an independent laboratory. Without this deal of scrutiny applied in the purchase of the natural diamond, you could easily purchase a lower quality diamond than the price is likely to reflect.

Security

In all diamond certificates, there will be a map of your diamond’s unique inclusions, much like a fingerprint that you can check. This diamond map gives you the peace of mind that IF it is ever needed, you can refer to it in case of a dispute. Some labs will even permanently laser inscribe the certificate number right on the girdle of the stone where it can be seen with a 10x jewelers’ loupe for easy identification.

With the certificate number laser inscribed on the diamond, you will be able to maintain the peace of mind that the diamond is really yours. Ideally, what I would do as a jeweller working with a laser inscribed diamond is turn the inscription so that it is visible when viewed above the location where the band and the settings meet. In taking such an approach, this way there is no need to un-set and re-set the diamond to find the certificate number, ensuring there is NO risk of damaging the diamond or setting.

Protection

While not all people who make an investment in a natural diamond think about the prospect of selling it at a later date, the value of the diamond in such a situation is something to consider when making this an investment. An independent lab certificate verifies the characteristics of the diamond and makes it much more likely that a dealer or other party will be interested in making the investment in purchasing it from you.

Now that we have explored why you want your natural diamond to have a certificate, you need to know what information is provided in the certificate and why it is important. Below you will find a list of all information on a diamond certificate and why it is important.

  • Laboratory Name – if you have not heard of the lab, research it to determine whether or not the name is of value in the industry.
  • Certificate Number – this number uniquely identifies the diamond. This number is associated with the information kept by the lab so a certificate can easily be re-issued if it is lost. If any further information is needed, the laboratory should be able to help.
  • Laser Inscription Registry – all diamonds receiving a GIA Diamond Certificate is micro-laser inscribed with its unique GIA Report number. Generally speaking, this number will read: GIA XXXXXXX.
  • Style of the Shape and Cut – shape refers to the outline of the diamond while cut refers to the facet arrangement.
  • Measurements – this information captures the diamond’s overall measurements – width, breadth, depth and diameter are calculated to the hundredth of a millimeter by a non-contact measuring device or a micrometer.
  • Size – diamonds are weighed to the thousandth of a carat with a digital measuring device and rounded to the hundredth of a carat.
  • Color – determined by examining the diamond next to a master set of color comparison stones, color ranges from the best grade of D, down to Z. The cleaner the colour – i.e.; between D and G – the more fire your diamond will have inherently. While it is possible to get very white looking H diamonds, a colour graded as G and above is where you should aim. Getting the best colour grading possible is the way to go when looking at diamonds; this is really the heart of the diamond.
  • Clarity – ranges in clarity begin at the best grade of FL, down through IF, VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2, SI1, SI2, I1, I2 until I3. To measure clarity, it is the reflection of the number, size placement and nature of inclusions and/or surface irregularities on the diamond. What I recommend for the clarity is to go for an “eye clean” diamond – which will be the clarity range of VS1 – SI1. Once you go higher than VS1 clarity, there is no real visual impact or gain. At that point, you tend to spend money on bragging rights only. The best results are seen when you spend your money on the best COLOUR and CUT grade possible.
  • Cut grade – measures how well or exact the cutting proportions and angles are in the diamond. The cutting formula to get the maximum “Fire and Brilliance” out of a diamond has been worked out mathematically, and as such the angles and proportions must be as close as possible to this formula. A diamond’s brilliance comes from how well it has been cut. The higher the quality here means that the more brilliance you will have inherently in your diamond. This ranges from excellent, very good, good and then fair or poor. With colour being the heart of a diamond, the cut grading is the soul of the diamond, combining the best possible grade for your budget.
  • Finish, polish and symmetry – finish refers to the polish of the diamond and the symmetry of the facets; polish refers to the quality of the polish on the facets; and symmetry refers to how precisely the facets are align to one another. This is measured one of four ways – excellent, very good, good and fair or poor. The higher the grading here the more brilliance your diamond will have.

Fluorescence – the diamond’s reaction to long wave ultraviolet radiation. Too strong a fluorescence can make a diamond less desirable. Generally speaking, a grading up to a “faint” fluorescence is fine as it will not affect the beauty of the diamond and is ONLY visible under UV light.

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I was doing some research on coloured gemstones for a client who wanted to use something different in her engagement ring. She was moving away from the traditional diamond set engagement ring and more towards having a coloured gemstone to go in the centre of her ring, we had gone through her birthstone – which was Aquamarine by the way.

But she wasn’t drawn to that idea.

So we started to talk about what different celebrities were wearing and so on, thinking that we might be able to spark some inspiration for her by using a real life example. I haven’t gotten back to her yet, but  what I have found is a short list of the most famous coloured gemstones that have been mined worldwide. I have put a link on the page to make it easy for you, but without giving too much away be prepared to see some mega gemstones here!

http://www.jewelinfo4u.com/World_Famous_Gemstones.aspx

They have pictures of huge carat weight gems, just take the first one for example, have you ever seen a 1759 carat emerald crystal before???

I didn’t think so…

Have some fun with this and let yourself be blown away at what the natural world is capable of creating… When I see things like this it reminds me about how fantastic a place we live in, just look at those perfectly formed crystals right out of the ground!

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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As we continue on our exploration of the differences between natural diamonds and cubic zirconias(CZ), we will now examine the toughness, hardness and dispersion of each of these stones. It is also important to talk about cleanliness as it is often a red flag for the experienced jeweller out to spot an imposter. [1]

Cleanliness is Not Next to Godliness

When discussing cleanliness of a diamond, this is not in reference to whether or not the stone is dirty, but rather the inside appearance of the stone. Natural diamonds gain much of their unique attributes from the inclusions within the stone. These natural features are found in natural minerals – like diamonds – and do not necessarily signal a flawed stone. A completely flawless stone under a 10-power jeweller’s loupe is most likely a cubic zirconia as the natural diamond version would be out of the financial reach of many a consumer.

How Tough is the Stone?

While cubic zirconias are known to outweigh natural diamonds nearly two to one, diamonds dominate when it comes to toughness. A material’s ability to resist breakage from a forceful impact is its toughness and diamonds tend to stand alone. In fact, the toughness of natural diamonds has been measured as 3.4 MN m-3/2; much stronger than the cubic zirconia stone, which tends to be more brittle than a natural diamond. A CZ stone can be scratched by other stones, while a diamond can only be scratched by other diamonds. [2]

Which Stone is Most Hardy?

Believe it or not, there is an abundance of conflicting information regarding the hardness of natural diamonds. It’s possible the confusion rests in the misunderstanding that this hardness is in reference to a natural mineral as diamonds are the hardest known natural material. [3] In examining the Mohs scale of hardness, natural diamonds score a 10, while the cubic zirconia is significantly softer, yet still respectfully hard, at an 8.5 rating.[4]

Dispersion – the Trick of the Eye

Dispersion is one area where the cubic zirconia is known to trick even the gemstone savvy customer. Dispersion occurs as a result of the gem’s refractive index, or how much a beam of light will bend, based on the direction in which it is passes between two different optical densities. In more basic language, dispersion is the breaking up of light into its spectral colors. A CZ stone has more dispersive power than a natural diamond – a 0.060 vs. 0.044 – creating more color and fire. Even with this difference, a CZ still cannot match the breathtaking brilliance of a natural diamond. [5]

While the toughness, hardness, dispersion and even cleanliness of the two stones are important to understand in the examination of the differences between cubic zirconias and natural diamonds; it could easily be the trip into the science of the creation of each of these gems that is the most fascinating. Check out our next post as we travel back in time.


[1] http://www.gottrocks.com/chat-cz.htm

[2] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamond

[3] http://www.diffen.com/difference/Cubic_Zirconia_vs_Diamond

[4] http://www.hsn.com/cubic-zirconia-guide_at-4579_xa.aspx

[5] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cubic_zirconia

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Have you ever wondered what the top ten most rare gemstones are in the world?

I was doing some research the other night for a client, and I stumbled across the page linked below.

It is a page that goes through and lists, then explains what the top 10 most rare coloured gemstones of the world are. I thought it was interesting and something that you would enjoy as being a post that is different to what I normally blog about. Unfortunately the page doesn’t include pictures of every gemstone on there, but it does however include a brief description on each one and generally where it can most commonly be found. Click on the link below to find out some rare info!

http://www.curiousnotions.com/gemstones/

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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What to Do with an Unexpected… and Outdated… Hand-Me-Down Diamond ring

It’s touching and meaningful when a relative presents you with a diamond ring that’s been in your family for years.  But what do you do when the diamond ring is… well… let’s just say “outdated”?

At this point, you have a few options:

a)     You can pretend that you love the diamond ring and wear it only when you know you’ll be seeing the person who gave it to you.

b)    You can pretend you love the diamond ring and put it into your jewellery box, never to have it see sunlight again.

c)     You can tell the person that you appreciate the gesture but would rather not have the diamond ring.

d)    You can be creative and use the basic elements of the diamond ring to craft an entirely new diamond ring that’s completely yours!

Obviously, I don’t recommend (a), (b) or (c).  If you choose (a) or (b), you’ll be wasting a perfectly good diamond!  And if you choose (c), you’ll probably hurt someone’s feelings (never a smart idea!)  That leaves you with option (d), which I feel is the ideal way to have the best of all worlds.

A diamond ring that’s in an outdated setting is nothing new to expert jewellers nor is it something that cannot be fixed.  Truly, we see this kind of “problem” on a somewhat regular basis.  Many women (and men) come to us specifically to turn what is old into something modern, fresh and wearable.

There’s no one way to create a new piece of jewellery from your heirloom diamond ring, which is why I always include an in-depth consultation with individuals who want to revitalise a drab diamond ring.

Sometimes, they simply want to add some other gemstones to increase the value of the ring; other times, they want to remove elements of the ring to show off a precious diamond.  Occasionally, clients even want a large diamond ring to be disassembled, the diamond to be cut into several smaller diamonds, and the ring to be reassembled in a contemporary fashion.

Don’t allow a beautiful diamond ring to languish in a box!  If you’ve been named the recipient of a piece of jewellery that could use a professional “makeover”, consider it an honor, even if the piece of jewellery is garish, out-of-date or simply not your style.  Turn that “ugly duckling” into a beautiful swan that can be worn with pride!

To find out more about just how we can turn the “ugly duckling” into a beautiful swan click on the link to our designer jewellery page and get in touch with me from there.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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Designing your own Engagement Ring

A marriage proposal is one of the most important and personal events of a lifetime.  A very special engagement ring will reflect the significance of this event.  When you become engaged, you and your partner can create a lasting symbol of your unique love for each other with a custom engagement ring design. With the help of an experienced jeweller, the process of designing a custom engagement ring will bring you and your loved one closer and help you create a ring that both of you will treasure forever.

The Design Process

Once you’ve decided to create an engagement ring that will reflect you and your partner’s personalities and taste, the next step is to consult a jeweller who specializes in custom engagement ring design.  An experienced jeweller has the technical expertise required to guide you through the design process.  Your jeweller will explain the process to you in simple terms and make sure you have input at every step.  You will gain an understanding and appreciation of how much is involved in custom designing an engagement ring.

Your jeweller will help you make a series of important design decisions related to ring design, including:

  • The type of stone – Diamonds are a traditional choice for engagement rings, but a truly unique design can be created using other types of stones.  Emeralds, rubies and pearls can be striking alternatives to diamonds.
  • The size and shape of the diamond or gemstone – Once the type of stone is chosen, your jeweller can recommend suitable sizes and shapes.  When recommending a diamond or gemstone, your jeweller will take into account your personalities, what you want to communicate through your engagement ring and a host of other considerations.
  • The style of the setting – The design details of the setting will have a major impact on the overall style and look of the ring.  The setting can be traditional, with a clean and crisp look that will allow your diamond or gemstone to sparkle with its own “fire and brilliance” or it may be embellished with side stones, engraving or filigrees, adding more detail and intrigue to the design.
  • The metal used for the setting – The setting design, the diamond and gemstones used and the ring budget will determine the best metal for the engagement ring.

After you have expressed your design preferences, your jeweller will create a custom design for your approval.  Many couples have seen another ring that they want to copy, or they may want to combine 2 or 3 design elements from other rings.  If this is the case with your ring design, feel free to bring in drawings or photos to give your jeweller an idea of what you have in mind.  A talented jeweller will incorporate these suggestions into a single cohesive ring design, adding any details that may be needed to complete the design and convey what you would like to have represented in your ring.

The Surprise Engagement Ring

A marriage proposal and engagement ring are often planned as a surprise.  In this case, the design decisions will be made solely by the man.  His fiancée’s lifestyle, looks, body size and shape, personality and taste in jewellery should be taken into account when designing a custom engagement ring.  Family members or close friends can be a great help in creating a design that will be cherished for a lifetime.

Wedding Band Considerations

The design for your wedding bands should be considered when designing your engagement ring, especially if a bridal set consisting of the two rings is desired.  Using similar stones, metals and design motifs is the best way to tie together the engagement and wedding rings.

Generally speaking, if you use a similar design in both engagement ring and wedding bands, you will gain the benefit of having them look they were designed together at the same time.  When the engagement and wedding ring are worn together they will truly look like a matched set and not two unmatched rings that were bought at different times and places and thrown together.

Custom Engagement Ring Budget

You and your partner need to be aware that a custom designed ring may cost a bit more than purchasing a mass market existing design due to the exclusivity of having an engagement ring designed specifically for you.  It’s important to establish a budget and to work with your jeweller to stick with your budget.  Your jeweller will be prepared to offer many suggestions on how to stick with your budget.  Be prepared to listen to your jeweller’s suggestions and work with the options that are presented to you.

If you would like some further information on how we can design and hand craft for you a custom engagement ring click on the link and my website will give you more information.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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In the world of fine gemstones, one of the most daunting questions among consumers is how to tell the difference between a natural diamond and cubic zirconias (CZ). To the untrained, naked eye, the less expensive could easily pass for the more exquisite, but value is not always in the eye of the beholder.

To accomplish mere flash, a CZ can easily fit the bill as it is designed to radiate light and create a spectacle of light and colour dancing off the stone. If you want to experience true brilliance and the marvel that is the natural diamond, let’s take a closer look at the differences between the gems created by nature and those fabricated in a lab.

Natural diamonds and CZ stones vary in a number of ways, including colour, weight, toughness, hardness, dispersion and even cleanliness, not to mention their creation. In truth, natural diamonds are superior to their CZ substitution, but without an understanding of the difference, it can seem a worthless investment. To begin this series, we will first examine colour and weight.

The Truth is in the Colour

In the process of searching for just the right stone, colour is an important priority. Colour is also one of the first tests for determining whether the stone is a CZ or a natural diamond. A tinge of yellow or brown is normal in natural diamonds that fall below acceptable quality standards, while cubic zirconia tends to be made entirely colourless when attempting to emulate the diamond. CZ stones are also available in a full range of colours, while only 0.01% of natural diamonds take on a more brilliant colour, enhancing the rare qualities of the stones.[1]

Expert diamond cutters will adhere to ideal proportions, causing the light to reflect from one facet to another, which is then dispersed through the top of the stone. When this light is refracted externally, it amplifies and disperses the refracted light to create a myriad of colours, concentrating the light, brilliance and lustre of the stone. The cubic zirconia, no matter the cut, has less brilliance than a diamond, but more flashes of colour. When examining the two, brilliance creates the “Wow” factor, while colour merely catches the eye.

The Scale Never Lies

Believe it or not; the cubic zirconia outweighs the natural diamond every time. In fact, the CZ is 70% heavier than the natural diamond. This is an important consideration for the price-conscious consumer who is considering the CZ purchase over the natural diamond in order to afford to larger gemstone. Purchasing the CZ over the diamond most certainly provides more stone for your dollar, but could be an impediment to purchase if the stone is too large and heavy for comfortable wear. [2]

While colour and weight provide keen insight into the differences between natural diamonds and cubic zirconia stones, this exploration of the two stones has merely just begun. Check out our next post as we examine the toughness, hardiness and dispersion of each of these stones, while also tapping into the red flag that is cleanliness.


[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamond#Color

[2] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cubic_zirconia

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