The 4C’s in Diamond Characteristics: Colour

June 29, 2010 · 0 comments

A natural diamond is known as the most brilliant and beautiful stone in the world. Diamonds are also rare and can also be very valuable. In a series of posts, we are examining how jewellers and consumers compare quality in a diamond. The GIA – the benchmark in diamond grading throughout the world – operates on a universal grading system and the 4C’s, which are cut, clarity, colour and carat weight.
In our last post in the series, we discussed the cut of the diamond. Now we will examine colour and how it impacts the presence and value of your stone. Chemically speaking, a pure and perfect diamond is completely transparent with no hue or colour. In reality, the perfect diamond is nearly non-existent and therefore it is important to understand how colour impacts the diamond itself.

The colour of the diamond is determined by the chemical impurities or structural defects (inclusions) in the crystal lattice. Diamonds can range in color from a steel gray to a red or any other colour you can imagine. The tissue impurities or structural defects of the diamond cause the different colours.

To simplify, diamonds are scientifically classified into two different types based on the nature of their impurities and how these impurities impact the absorption of light:

  • Type I diamonds have nitrogen atoms as their main impurity. When these atoms are in pairs, they have no impact on the colour of the diamond. Atoms in large, even-numbered aggregates create a yellow to brown tint. Nitrogen atoms dispersed throughout the diamond in isolated sites give the stone an intense yellow or the occasion brown tint. Type I diamonds have Fluorescence and visible absorption spectrum.
  • Type II diamonds do not have measurable nitrogen impurities and absorb light in a different region of the infrared. Type II diamonds transmit in the ultraviolet below 225 nm. Structural anomalies through the creation of the crystal can cause a pink, red or brown colour. When boron is scattered within the diamond, the stone can have a light blue colour. Varying quantities of radiation exposure can cause a diamond to have a green colour.

To classify the diamond according to colour, the GIA relies on an examination of the diamond next to a master set of colour comparison stones. Colour ranges from the best grade of D, down to Z. The cleanest colour is between D and G and will give a diamond significantly more fire.

As the GIA rates the value of the diamond according to cut and colour, D or E diamonds are more valuable than R or Y as high-colour diamonds are rarer, which limits supply; and the bright white appearance of high-color diamonds is sought by consumers, which drives demand.

Colour is truly the heart of the diamond, while cut will bring out the best quality of that colour. To get the most value and enjoyable viewing out of your diamond, aim for a colour grading of G and above. This will ensure you get the presentation you hope for in your diamond, while also extending the value of your investment.

Now that you have a better understanding of the cut and colour of the diamond and how they are considered in determining the value of the stone, we will next take a look at clarity and its role in the 4 C’s.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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Diamonds – How Are They Formed?

June 27, 2010 · 0 comments

Natural diamonds are one of the most beautiful and brilliant elements ever produced. It is in the creation of the diamond that makes it so rare and valuable. Diamonds can be created within a lab setting, but to achieve the “Fire and Brilliance” present in a natural diamond; it takes time, intense pressure, significant heat and carbon.

The unique beauty found in the natural diamond is achieved in the process of its creation, which takes place 75-120 miles below the surface of the earth where temperatures can range from 900ºC to 1300ºC and pressure is 50,000 times that of atmospheric pressure. Diamonds are the only gems known to man that are made of a single element: carbon.

To form a diamond, carbon escapes from the melting of pre-existing rocks in the Earth’s upper mantle. An overabundance of carbon atoms exist in the mantle and temperature changes in the upper mantle will force the atoms deeper and new rocks are formed when the temperature decreases. When the proper pressure and chemistry are in place, the atoms will combine their cubic molecular form to ultimately create diamond crystals.

Diamonds are created along with cratons, deep keel-like roots of old stable continental crust. Cratons are formed near the bottom of plates at the same time and location as the formation of the diamond. Diamonds will remain among the cratons unless they are brought closer to the earth’s surface through natural processes.

This process takes place deep below the surface of the earth and without some form of intense pressure to bring the diamonds closer to the surface; they would remain out of reach. Volcanic eruptions provide the necessary force to dislodge the diamond crystals, which will then make their way to the surface through pipes and channels that contain the magma from the volcano.

Diamond deposits that make it to the surface of the earth are called Kimberlite Pipes or Blue Ground. Overtime, erosion can move diamond deposits to riverbeds, which are known as Alluvial Deposits. It is said that every 100 tons of mud produces one carat of a diamond, which will literally be a diamond in the rough.

Geologists estimate that it takes anywhere from 1 billion to 3.3 billion years to complete the entire process of creating a single natural diamond. This timing is estimated to represent 25-75 percent of the life of the earth, indicating that diamonds have been in at least the formation process for nearly as long as the earth has been in existence. This fact alone lends to the unique characteristics of the stones.

The beauty of the natural diamond is certainly something that is created by nature and the brilliance achieved depends completely on the circumstances of the stone’s creation billions of years ago. When that natural diamond is placed in an appropriate setting, the bearer of the stone is truly wearing a timeless work of art.

Sam Kritsotakis – Your Private Jeweller

Eskae Jewellery

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Rare blue diamond fetches $9.5M at auction

June 23, 2010 · 1 comment

Rare blue diamond fetches $9.5M at auction

Auction house Sotheby’s said it sold a rare 7.03 carat blue diamond for a record price of 9.5 million US dollars (7.0 million euros) to an anonymous bidder.

“This total represents the highest price for a fancy vivid blue diamond sold at auction and the record price per carat for any gemstone sold at auction,” said Sotheby’s in a statement.

http://news.smh.com.au/breaking-news-world/rare-blue-diamond-fetches-95-mln-at-auction-20090514-b3hj.html

This is representative of the way that prices for coloured diamonds is going – UP – at an accelerating rate. The demand for these rare and wonderful pieces of the earth is starting to boil, along with he fact that the supply capacity for them dwindling at the same time. The Argyle diamond in Western Australia has begun to decrease the supply of their world famous coloured diamonds, 1 full year earlier than planned due to the GFC, because the supply in that rich diamond mine is finite and is expected to cease in or before 2018.

This fact is pushing the prices of coloured diamonds sky high at an accelerating rate going forward. The diamond cartel DeBeer’s released a statement last year saying that “…if the current demand for coloured diamonds continues at the same rate, we expect that prices for coloured diamonds, in particular pink diamonds, could double in value in the next two years…”

Lending some serious weight to the fact that these prices are now running and not walking.

If this is something that you might consider as an investment or even if you simply want to own one of the rarest diamonds in the world then go to the Eskae Jeweller website and fill out the contact form to book an appointment with me so that I can help you along the way of making one of the best diamond purchases you will make.

Sam Kritsotakis -Your Private Jeweller

Eskae Jeweller

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Inclusions – Natural Imperfections

June 23, 2010 · 0 comments

To those who have enjoyed a love of diamonds, you understand the pleasure in viewing the natural diamond is in how the light passes through the gem, creating fire and brilliance as a dance of color and light will radiate from the stone. While flawless stones are known to create the best light show, the process in which diamonds are created lends to a less than flawless outcome.

In the process of creating the diamond, it is common for inclusions to be present that will affect the way light passes through the diamond. Inclusions can also result from diamond enhancement procedures, which include laser lines, used to drill out inclusions that will then be filled with a silicon-like substance to enhance the diamond’s visual properties. Often considered to be blemishes to the natural beauty of the diamond, inclusions can also impact the strength and durability of the stone.

It is common within the diamond industry to refer to inclusions as “internal characteristics” when describing the growth crystals that are unique to that particular diamond. Inclusions occur within the stone and are often referred to as flaws as they separate the diamond from perfection. In this post we will examine the inclusions Clouds and Feathers.

Clouds


Clouds resemble a gray overcast sky when they are present in a diamond, but not always to the naked eye. Clouds are known as a dense grouping of tiny pinpoints that create a cloudy zone that may or may not resolve as individuals pinpoints when the stone is magnified 10 times. The cloud generally consists of three or more pinpoint-sized diamond crystals located in close proximity and rarely impact the strength of the diamond.

While clouds are common, a single cloud should not cover a third or more of the diamond or it will affect the visual appearance of the diamond. On a diamond grading report, clouds are indicted as circles or formations comprised of small red dots or pinpoints. While the majority of clouds are translucent, the visibility of the cloud can vary depending upon the light source used to evaluate the cloud.

Feathers


Feathers are a much more serious inclusion as they not only impact the visual appearance of the diamond, but also its strength if they reach the surface of the stone. Feathers are essentially tiny fractures in the diamond. In a grading report, the feather is generally plotted with tiny red lines or hash marks.

Feathers are not always a cause for concern, unless they break the surface of the stone or impact the brilliance of the diamond as light passing through its facets. A professional will examine the diamond closely by “breaking” it into two halves on a diagram. If the feathers run through both “halves” of the diamond, this indicates the feathers run the gamut of the stone. Such a feather could cause the diamond to crack under undue pressure.

The important think to remember is that this crack “might” happen; I am not guaranteeing that it will. Instead, I am advising you to be careful and take your time when evaluating a diamond with a feather inclusion.

There are still many inclusions to explore. Check back with us next time as we look at included crystals, cavities and cleavage.

[1] www.gemnation.com/images/clarity/clouds3.jpg

[2] www.gemnation.com/images/clarity/clouds3.jpg

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Dog eats $20,000 diamond

June 18, 2010 · 0 comments

Dog eats $20,000 diamond…

You have to check out this link, it is hilarious and to be honest I don’t fancy being the owner when things eventually work themselves out! if you know what I mean…

A diamond dealer went to a store in America to show the store owners a 3+ carat diamond worth about US $20,000, when he dropped it and the dog quickly scurried and eat it up!

http://media.smh.com.au/dog-eats-20000-diamond-1220246.html

Sam Kritsotakis – Your Private Jeweller

Eskae Jeweller

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Fluorescence and Its Impact on the Diamond

June 17, 2010 · 0 comments

The beauty of a natural diamond is best captured when light shines through the stone. How the diamond behaves in this light is important to its appearance and truly its value. Fluorescence is something that is often evaluated in a diamond and refers to the way a diamond responds when subjected to ultra-violet (or black) light.

Fluorescence is truly an amazing phenomenon as it can cause a diamond to glow different colors. The most common color in Fluorescence is blue, although in very rare occasions, a diamond has been known to glow white, yellow, green or even red in color. It is strongly advised that the latter be avoided unless the diamond color matches the hue of the Fluorescence.

Roughly one third of diamonds have Fluorescence, an effect very much akin to what your white shirt will do under a black light. In a diamond, this Fluorescence can be faint or very strong. According to one GIA survey, fluorescent diamonds are favored over non-fluorescent stones, especially in lower colors H-Z due to the fact that fluorescence can sometimes make the diamond appear to have a better colour than it really does, but this can even occur in higher diamond colors, such as D, E, F or G graded diamonds.

Interestingly, Fluorescence has a somewhat tainted past in the diamond industry. A number of years ago, D-F colorless fluorescent diamonds were highly prized and referred to as “blue-white”. Unfortunately, sales professionals abused the term by using it to refer to any diamond with Fluorescence and trade practice laws in the United States outlawed the use of the term, then other countries followed suit.

The element of Fluorescence in diamond grading is interesting as the GIA light used in testing emits a small amount of ultra violet light, which can cause the diamond Fluorescence to be assigned a better color grade. At the same time, and unfortunately, a number of less experienced diamond sales professionals are not skilled in explaining the phenomenon of Fluorescence and therefore a Fluoro comment on a diamond grading card can make the diamond worth less, even if its quality can withstand such a grading.

Why?

Fluorescence is visible light emitted by elements within the stone when a diamond is under the higher energy source provided by the UV light. This distorts the diamond effect. In some cases, it makes the diamond appear to be oily or cloudy, which is considered to be very bad by both the GIA and the average consumer.

By contrast, one GIA study found that such diamonds are extremely rare and this could play into value. In this same study, unfortunately, there was not enough of the same type of diamond to examine for further investigation. As a result, this concept is still up for debate and has caused considerable controversy in the industry.

While the information regarding Fluorescence can be confusing, there are three elements to consider that are always consistent:

1)      Strong blue Fluorescent diamonds generally appear hazy

2)      Medium blue Fluorescent diamonds rarely appear hazy

3)      Slight blue Fluorescent diamonds never appear hazy

When selecting a diamond with Fluorescence, seek a diamond with a Fluorescence grading of FAINT or up to SLIGHT to gain the best and most brilliant diamond appearance in natural light.

There are generally two schools of thought in the industry when it comes to Fluorescence:

  1. Avoid it at all costs
  2. Up to and including a SLIGHT grading is acceptable as this is barely visible to the naked eye in normal lighting conditions – or normal everyday wear.

Personally I prefer to source diamonds without Fluorescence as I have found that it will give you greater peace of mind in the long term. In the off chance your diamond ring or jewellery has to go through a UV light, no Fluorescence means there is no chance of the diamonds starting to glow all sorts of funny colours.  You won’t have to worry about this phenomenon, or worry that your diamond will appear oily or hazy when viewed in natural sunlight.

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Add Drama to Your Marriage Proposal with a Custom-Crafted Engagement Ring

June 15, 2010 · 0 comments

Add Drama to Your Marriage Proposal with a Custom-Crafted Engagement Ring

Your marriage proposal.  It’s a time to be creative… to be memorable… to be surprising.  What better way to make it a truly dramatic moment than with a custom-crafted engagement ring?

A custom-crafted diamond ring adds a “wow” factor when you pop the question.  It tells your soon-to-be fiancé that you took the moment seriously, which is something every woman appreciates.

Certainly, there are mass-produced engagement rings on the market that you could purchase.  But can you honestly say they reflect your relationship with the person you want to be with forever?  In other words, is your romance generic?  Is it ordinary?  Of course it’s not!  You and your loved one have a very special bond that needs to be echoed by the engagement ring you choose.

Imagine the moment when you ask your significant other to be your wife and she sees one of the most unique diamond engagement rings she could ever imagine.  Doesn’t she deserve to experience that kind of once-in-a-lifetime excitement thanks to your thoughtful preparation?

If you’re not absolutely convinced that a custom made engagement ring needs to be a significant part of your marriage proposal, take these facts into consideration:

1.  Engagement Rings That are Personalized Can Tell the Story of Your Relationship

Never underestimate the ability of a fine jeweller to craft a diamond engagement ring that tells the tale of your love with your future betrothed.  Many custom-crafted diamond engagement rings’ elements (e.g., type of gold, style of setting, cut of diamond) are carefully considered based on the relationship between the affianced.  This makes them a daily symbol and reminder of a matchless love.

2.  Unique Diamond Engagement Rings Are More Valued Than Their Mass-Produced Counterparts

When you commission an award-winning jeweller to create an engagement ring, you’re sending a very specific message to your loved one.  And she’s going to reciprocate by treating her one-of-a-kind custom made engagement ring in a manner befitting such an extraordinary item.  (This isn’t to say that she’d dislike a mass-produced engagement ring; however, wouldn’t you treat a customized item with more care than one you could easily replace?)

3.  A Custom-Crafted Engagement Ring Is a Long-Term Investment, Not a “Throw Away” Expenditure

When you make the decision to choose an engagement ring that’s been painstakingly crafted by a fine jeweller, you are making a wise fiscal investment, not simply spending your money.  Your future spouse’s unique diamond engagement ring will appreciate in value over the years and will most likely be handed down for centuries.  This means your purchase will become a lasting financial asset for generations.

Turn your marriage proposal from good to phenomenal with a custom crafted engagement ring.  You’ll never regret your decision to make your proposal spectacular!

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Eskae Jeweller – WINS – Exponential Entrepreneur Of The Year Award!

June 10, 2010 · 0 comments

I got the news via email just the other day…

I had WON!

Such a great feeling to get recognised as an Exponential Entrepreneur of the Year, especially amongst a group of individuals who are over achievers.

I have had such a good time learning about the exponential mindset, and how to leverage these strategies that involve not only myself and the way I think, but the way that other people can help me to grow my business, in a win/win/win scenario. The possibilities are seemingly endless, it is very exciting!

Marc Dussault is an unbelievable leader in the Exponential Program, his advice and guidance have helped me go from having a dream of owning my own business, to being able to make this a firm and living reality for myself, in a strategic manner that will help me maintain my business going forward, so that this is not just a flash in the pan.

It is all about taking consistent steps in the right direction, based on strategy, rather than just throwing stuff on the wall to see what and who sticks… its what is called the 1% improvement doctrine, the basis of the exponential mindset.

As Marc says, “… live a life by design, rather than have an existence by default…” I have paraphrased Marc there but the message is still the same.

I have linked the blog announcement of the Exponential Entrepreneur Winners, so you can check out the announcement for yourself!

I would also like to take this opportunity to THANK those of you who have helped me make this transition from someone who used to do private work at home into someone who is now a fully fledged business owner, living his dream…

Without your support non of this would have been possible.

Thank you.

Sam Kritsotakis – Your Private Jeweller

Eskae Jewellery

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Natural Diamonds vs. Cubic Zirconia; Part III

June 10, 2010 · 0 comments

In this recent series of exploring the differences between natural diamonds and cubic zirconias (CZ), we have examined the toughness, hardness, dispersion, weight and colour of each of these stones. While we have identified glaring differences between the quality of the CZ when compared with the natural diamond, perhaps the most fascinating differences are in their simple creation.

The Creation of the Synthetic CZ

For generations, scientists have explored how to re-create the natural diamond in such a way that the synthetic could easily be substituted for the real thing. Simple class couldn’t come close to the brilliance of a natural diamond, but the cubic zirconia does a pretty good job of impersonation.

As the crystalline form of zirconium dioxide, the cubic zirconia is a synthesized material that is hard, optically flawless and usually colorless. Since 1976, this gem has been considered the most aggressive competitor against diamonds and is sometimes marketed under the brand name, “Diamonique.”[1]

While nature creates the perfect environment for the creation of a beautiful diamond, man must take the reigns when it comes to the CZ. During the synthesis of the cubic zirconia, zirconium oxide will create monoclinic crystals in a stable environment. To create that environment, a stabilizer must be used when the zirconia is heated to an impressive 2750 degrees Celsius in order to control the growth of the crystals.

Once the zirconia melts, a thin shell is left behind that remains solid as it is cooled by the water in the copper fingers. In this process, the zirconia and the stabilizing oxide are added. To achieve the desired uniformity in the stone, the contents are kept molten for a number of hours. While it is a proven process, it is one that takes precision and focus to produce a gem perfect enough to pass as a diamond substitute. [2]

The Creation of a Brilliant Natural Diamond

The creation of a natural diamond requires two important elements: carbon and time. When these two elements are combined under high pressure and high temperatures, a diamond can eventually emerge. The majority of natural diamonds are formed under such conditions in the earth’s mantle.

It is estimated that it takes from 1 billion to 3.3 billion years to complete the creation of the natural diamond. When this process is complete, the diamond must be brought closer to the surface of the earth in order to be mined – an action that also relies on nature. Deep volcanic eruptions can bring a diamond closer to the surface or continental plates can collide to push diamonds and other minerals upward. [3]

Extreme geological conditions are necessary to form a natural diamond. The temperature must be greater than 800 degrees Celsius and the pressure must be 50,000 times atmospheric pressure. Such conditions on earth only exist at 150km to 200km below the surface.

In such conditions there exists cratons, deep keel-like roots of old stable continental crust. These cratons formed near the bottom of plates at the same time and location as the formation of diamonds. Among the cratons, diamonds will remain unless they are brought to the surface through natural processes. [4]

While we have discussed that the brilliance, toughness and pure value of the diamond surpasses the cubic zirconia every time, perhaps the most important element of consideration is the fact that the natural diamond is rare. CZ stones can be created time and again, while there is a finite number of natural diamonds available and the waiting list for the next round is beyond our comprehension.

[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cubic_zirconia

[2] http://www.catalogs.com/info/clothing/what-is-cubic-zirconia.html

[3] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamond#Formation_in_cratons

[4] http://www.which-diamonds.com/diamondcreation.html

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Evening Star Diamond Sells for US$5.4 Million!

June 5, 2010 · 0 comments

The Evening Star Diamond, a 39 carat pear-shaped diamond from India’s ancient Golconda mines, was sold for US$5.4 million (US$138,000 per carat) at Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels auction.

Evening Star Diamond

According to Christies, the Evening Star was named due to its owner’s custom of wearing the gem to her most important evening events – often as a pendant suspended from a diamond necklace of 68 graduated pear-shaped diamonds and with matching pear of earrings. Click on the link below to find the full article on this magnificent diamond.

http://www.jewelleryworld.net.au/2010/01/11/article/Evening-Star-sells-for-US5-4-million/KUCQXPVXTL.html

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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