Archive for the 'Diamond Education' Category

The 4C’s in Diamond Characteristics: Carat Weight

The 4C’s in Diamond Characteristics: Carat Weight

In this series of blog posts, I have been examining the brilliance and beauty of the natural diamond. I have touched on the colour, clarity and cut of the diamond. These three, along with carat weight make up the 4C’s. The 4C’s is a method by which the GIA – the benchmark in diamond grading throughout the world – compares the quality of diamonds.

In this post, let’s take a look at carat weight and how that plays into the value and desire of the diamond. The word carat is the term used to express the weight of the diamond and one carat is equal to 200 milligrams of actual weight and five carats is equal to 1 gram. Interestingly, while carat weight is used to measure other gemstones, different stones of the same weight are not necessarily the same sizes as the density of the stone plays a role in total carat weight.

When considering two equal carat diamonds, for instance, one may be cut too shallow and will appear to have a larger diameter but a smaller depth. The other diamond may be cut too deep – what is considered to be bottom heavy – and will have a smaller diameter, but will appear smaller when it is viewed from the top. In this case, both diamonds are equal in carat weight, yet look very different when viewed with the naked eye.

It is important to remember that as the diamond carat size increases, so does the diameter and depth of the diamond. As a result, a 1.00 carat diamond will not look twice as wide as a 0.50 carat diamond. At the same time, you must consider the size of the finger that will wear the diamond as a 1 carat solitaire looks much larger on a smaller finger than it will on a larger finger.

Smaller diamonds are weighed in points instead of carats. The carat weight is still the base of measurement, but the points communicate to the consumer and the jeweller how much of a whole carat is represented in the stone. In other words, there are 100 points in 1 carat and if a diamond is rated a 0.05, this means it is five one-hundredths. A 0.05 carat diamond is equal to five points.

The carat weight of the diamond will impact its value, simply because larger diamonds that are both brilliant and beautiful are much rarer. At the same time, the larger diamond is in more demand than smaller diamonds of the same quality. As a result, a larger carat diamond solitaire has more value that a diamond setting made up of multiple diamonds that total the same carat weight, but are individually smaller. Likewise, the diamond that is just less than one full carat will be less expensive than the diamond that surpasses the full-carat benchmark.

No matter what the carat weight of the diamond, its value will also take into account the cut, clarity and colour as all four combine into the 4C’s when determining the true quality and investment potential of the diamond.

I have enjoyed this series and I do hope that you have been able to learn some new and important information that will help you make the best decision when you are purchasing your next diamond – whether it be for an engagement ring or anniversary or just because…

If you are in need of expert advice, please contact me via my website, Eskae Jeweller and I will be happy to sit with you to go through the various options available in your next diamond purchase.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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Inclusions – Natural Imperfections Part III

In this series on inclusions, I have been examining the different elements of the natural diamond that are known as inclusions or natural imperfections. So far, I have examined clouds, feathers, cleavage, crystals and cavities.

Today, I will take a look at pinpoints, internal graining and needles. While many of these inclusions will have similar characteristics, there are also some differences we will explore here together so you better understand how these inclusions impact the beauty and value of the diamond.

Pinpoints

Pinpoints are the tiny light or dark crystals you may see in the diamond that can appear on their own or together with other crystals in clusters. When the pinpoints are gathered together in a cluster, they are known as a cloud because they can create a hazy area in the diamond. This cloud will affect the clarity of the diamond by disrupting the path of light through the diamond which in turn will also play a role in the quality grading for determining the value of the diamond.

Diamond Inclusions - Pinpoints create a cloud

Internal Graining

As diamonds are formed through a unique process, the crystals forming with the diamond take on their own characteristics. Internal graining occurs when irregular crystal growth takes place within the stone, creating internal distortions, waviness and/or a haze to the appearance of the diamond. This internal graining can easily be accompanied by an internal strain.

Internal graining is also known as grain lines or growth lines. If the grain line is colorless, it often will not affect the clarity of the diamond. If the lines are present in large masses, however, they can impact the diamond’s clarity again by disrupting the path of light through the diamond. At the same time, white or colored grain lines are known to lower the clarity grade of the diamond.

Diamond Inclusions - Internal graining

Needles

Needles are another example of internal flaws that can exist in a natural diamond. When the internal crystals are present in the form of long and thin needles, they earn the needle reference. Many needle inclusions are not visible to the naked eye, although needles that take on a particular color can be easily seen. As you can see in the photo provided, some needles can be clustered together, very apparent to the viewer in a way that vastly impacts the beauty and value of the diamond.

Diamond Inclusions - Needles within the diamond

While it is easy to assume that all inclusions will affect the quality of the diamond in a negative way, this is not always true. Instead, talk to a professional jeweller to determine whether or not the diamond of interest has any natural inclusions and how they may impact the quality of the stone. Keep in mind that most diamonds will have some form of an inclusion that gives it a unique characteristic that can at times enhance its beauty.

Believe it or not, we still haven’t covered all inclusions that could occur in a natural diamond. I will continue this series to make sure you are completely informed and educated on all the possibilities. Join me next time as I explore carbon, knots and growth tubes.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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Inclusions – Natural Imperfections

To those who have enjoyed a love of diamonds, you understand the pleasure in viewing the natural diamond is in how the light passes through the gem, creating fire and brilliance as a dance of color and light will radiate from the stone. While flawless stones are known to create the best light show, the process in which diamonds are created lends to a less than flawless outcome.

In the process of creating the diamond, it is common for inclusions to be present that will affect the way light passes through the diamond. Inclusions can also result from diamond enhancement procedures, which include laser lines, used to drill out inclusions that will then be filled with a silicon-like substance to enhance the diamond’s visual properties. Often considered to be blemishes to the natural beauty of the diamond, inclusions can also impact the strength and durability of the stone.

It is common within the diamond industry to refer to inclusions as “internal characteristics” when describing the growth crystals that are unique to that particular diamond. Inclusions occur within the stone and are often referred to as flaws as they separate the diamond from perfection. In this post we will examine the inclusions Clouds and Feathers.

Clouds


Clouds resemble a gray overcast sky when they are present in a diamond, but not always to the naked eye. Clouds are known as a dense grouping of tiny pinpoints that create a cloudy zone that may or may not resolve as individuals pinpoints when the stone is magnified 10 times. The cloud generally consists of three or more pinpoint-sized diamond crystals located in close proximity and rarely impact the strength of the diamond.

While clouds are common, a single cloud should not cover a third or more of the diamond or it will affect the visual appearance of the diamond. On a diamond grading report, clouds are indicted as circles or formations comprised of small red dots or pinpoints. While the majority of clouds are translucent, the visibility of the cloud can vary depending upon the light source used to evaluate the cloud.

Feathers


Feathers are a much more serious inclusion as they not only impact the visual appearance of the diamond, but also its strength if they reach the surface of the stone. Feathers are essentially tiny fractures in the diamond. In a grading report, the feather is generally plotted with tiny red lines or hash marks.

Feathers are not always a cause for concern, unless they break the surface of the stone or impact the brilliance of the diamond as light passing through its facets. A professional will examine the diamond closely by “breaking” it into two halves on a diagram. If the feathers run through both “halves” of the diamond, this indicates the feathers run the gamut of the stone. Such a feather could cause the diamond to crack under undue pressure.

The important think to remember is that this crack “might” happen; I am not guaranteeing that it will. Instead, I am advising you to be careful and take your time when evaluating a diamond with a feather inclusion.

There are still many inclusions to explore. Check back with us next time as we look at included crystals, cavities and cleavage.


[1] www.gemnation.com/images/clarity/clouds3.jpg

[2] www.gemnation.com/images/clarity/clouds3.jpg

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