The cufflink is an interesting adornment rooted in tradition. Before cufflinks were ever conceived, buttons were used by tailors as decoration for clothing as a gentleman’s attire was typically held together by pins, laces and straps. The cufflink was not even a possibility until the worked buttonhole was developed during the Renaissance. This advancement drove the button to the mainstream as a means to fasten clothing.
The post-Renaissance era in the 1600s saw the birth of the cufflink, displayed as two ornate buttons, attached in the middle with a link of chain. Thus, the upper classes of Europe, Great Britain especially, had a unique way to customize a man’s clothing.
To meet a growing demand, jewellers created “sleeve buttons” with designs etched or stamped into silver or gold. Such buttons were often encrusted with previous stones and the mark of a gentleman was affixed in the wearing of the cufflink.
The London Gazette in 1684 featured one of the earliest descriptions of a cufflink, which included a pair of what was referred to as cuff buttons set with diamonds. In 1686, the same publication referred to cuff buttons made of golden enamel. Further evidence of cufflinks in the 17th century was found in Suffolk, England. A decorated gold single chain cufflink has been found that originated in that era.
While the history varies somewhat depending upon the source, the use of cufflinks on a consistent basis was not seen until the mid-nineteenth century. It was at this time that the ever-present ruffles on the shirt were replaced with minimal sleeves that allowed more functionality in the wear. In particular, the French Cuff arrived – also known as the Double Cuff, Poignet Mousquetaire and the Musketeer’s Cuff – creating the perfect platform for the introduction of the cufflink as a standard part of attire for first class gentlemen.
This piece of adornment was not meant only for the upper class, however. By the 1860s, the cufflink found a place in the mainstream. Credit can be given to jewellers such as Child & Child in London and Krementz & Co in New York as they both were responsible for introducing cufflinks within a price range and style that fit the budget and taste of the general public.
While the cufflink enjoyed widespread acceptance as a must-have adornment on the gentleman’s shirt, the industry suffered a setback in the late twentieth century when shirt manufacturers began to mass produce dress and tuxedo shirts with buttons on the cuff. Companies such as Tiffany and Cartier found this merely a distraction and instead created cufflinks that continue to appeal to the masses.
As personalization is one of the biggest trends at play today, cufflinks are the perfect way for you to personalize your attire. Whether you hope to demonstrate a tradition, match a suit or simply make a statement, cufflinks offer a world of possibilities that perfectly top any style today.
Sam Kritsotakis
