Archive for the 'Refreshing Ring Rejuvenation' Category

Birthstone Of The Month – August

The birthstone for August is called a peridot which has two different ways of pronouncing it correctly. The first way is pronounced, PEAR-A-DOE and the second is PEAR-A-DOT..

Peridots are especially sentimental to wearers of this gemstone because it’s only found in four known places: Burma, China, Pakistan and America. Besides only the limited locations in which you can discover a peridot, another reason these gems are so special is for all of the fascinating facts that surround it

Take its colouring for example: Its light green colour can often confuse people into thinking it’s a light green emerald; especially when the peridot is often called an evening emerald. These birthstones, however, are nothing alike considering that each gem comes from two entirely different types of elemental compounds!

To help remember the difference, the colour of peridots are usually in reference to foods such as limes, kiwis and olives, whereas, emeralds are very rich in colour and can only be described as an emerald colour. Keep reading to see how these little beauties get their lime colouring!

Origins

Volcanic formation

Every gemstone carries its own story to tell and the peridot birthstone isn’t any different. The peridot carries so much history with it that it can still be found in ancient Egyption jewellery artefacts from the early 2nd millennium B.C.!

Coming from deep, down under the surface of the earth, peridots are normally found in very small increments so getting one bigger than a 3carat stone is very rare. It takes an extreme amount of heat and pressure from volcanoes that form an igneous rock when the magma cools down.

That’s a pretty typical answer of how many gems are formed but with the ever-fascinating peridot, there’s an even more exciting way that they can also be formed: Meteors. That’s right! These aliens from outer space travel down to earth inside of a stony-iron meteorite called a pallasite.

Now, this explains the rock formation the peridot but doesn’t explain how this birthstone gets its green appearance. To understand the colouring, you have to first understand its transformation process.

Meteor formation

Olivine is the silicate mineral rock that’s formed by volcanoes and meteors and is very rich in magnesium and iron. It’s when this olivine crystallises that it then turns into the peridot gemstone.

Because olivine has an extremely large melting point, it takes a very, very long time to form. The vividness of the colouring that occurs depends entirely on the composition of the olivine magnesium. The higher the amount of magnesium there is, the paler green, almost a yellowish colour is present. Lesser amounts of magnesium equal darker, richer colours.

Mystical Qualities

Going back to the B.C. Egyptian days in the 1500s, Cleopatra famously wore what were thought to be emeralds at that time but are now believed to be peridot. Known for her beauty, she ironically wore the gems for completely different purposes.

Among one of its many names, the peridot was also known as, ‘gem of the sun’ in which it carried highly magical powers that worked the best when set inside of pure gold. A line from a poetic representation of this birthstone says:

Wear a Peridot for thee,

No conjugal fidelity,

The August born without this stone,

Tis said, must live unloved alone.

Peridots were believed to ward off evil and protect those who had nightmares but more importantly, these stones were used as positive preventative measures taken against negativity. Wearing these stones meant relaxation, stress reduction and the alleviation of fear, anger and emotional trauma.

Health wise, drinking from a peridot goblet was thought to increase medicinal potency, heal persons with asthma as well as an all-over body tonic. The uses for this stone were endless and while this carried a lot of believers all of those centuries back, people of today still feel a sense of awe when wearing it.

Gift Ideas

Peridots aren’t one of the harder gemstones like diamonds and emeralds are but they can be just as expensive. It only has a 6.5 – 7 rating on the Moh’s scale of hardness which means that you must take excellent care of your peridot! This means follow your jewellery professional’s instructions and never try to fix it or give it a good, hard cleaning at home.

It might be your favourite gift in the form of a ring, earrings, bracelets or necklaces that you’ll want to wear without taking off for days at a time but this is one gemstone that you should save for special occasions. Household chores, daily errands, cleaning peridots or any type of hard wear will allow a distinctive absorption spectrum to show or worse, break or dent the gemstone which is definitely be something you wouldn’t want to do.

Peridots aren’t necessarily extremely bright stones but they do have a lot of sparkle within their pale colours. Like its birth month, peridots look fantastic during the summertime making it largely popular for favourite summer jewellery.

Lime green may not be the colour that people think will go with any clothes or other coloured gems but it can actually get along quite well with a lot of colours! Thinking about summer colours again, peridots look amazing with white, turquoise, peach and yellow colours so don’t worry about clashing or only wearing it with exact matching exact. Mix it up a little!

After reading up on all the amazing qualities peridots have to offer, who doesn’t wish their birthday was in August?

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Eskae Private Jeweller – Apprentice week 11

Hello there,

My 11th week has come and gone and I would love to tell you some more about what I have been learning. The first technique I learnt this week with Sam Kritsotakis at Eskae Private Jeweller was soldering two large jumprings onto the sides of an 18ct white gold ring and secondly perfecting my emerying, polishing and rhodium plating techniques and skills to restore pieces of jewellery which show wear and tear, such as scratches, dents, low polish and have no longer got rhodium plating left on them.

The first technique; soldering the two jumprings onto a wide hammer finished ring was a new technique to learn as I was able to perform soldering using binding wire to help me hold the separate pieces in place which is a helpful technique. It was quite fun actually to perform this soldering skill. And I enjoyed it immensely.

To begin, both edges of the ring and one side of each jumpring needed to be flat, clean and smooth. This was done by using emery papers to create a smooth surface before soldering. Next the flat surface on the jumpring was placed face down onto the side of the ring. The solder line on the jumpring was aligned with the bottom of the hammer finished designer ring. The two are then held together with fine binding wire. This wire helps hold the two in place whilst soldering them together to ensure that the jumpring does not move with the solder and heat. I then placed the two into a boracic acid and mentholated spirits solution, which keeps the ring’s polished and shiney appearance from oxidising whilst heat is being applied. The solution is then burned off with a flame to leave a glaze like finish over the ring which stops the air from making contact with the ring which in turn causes the ring to oxidise. This flame is actually a very cool colour, instead of being a blue or orange colour it is actually a bright green colour. It is only faint, however when you can see it, it is very interesting.

The ring is now ready for soldering after having flux applied along the join sections. At the top of the ring, I place a piece of solder on the inside right in between where the ring meets the jumpring, and drew the solder outwards ( a similar technique to what I mentioned to you last week on the pendant) except that this time on the ring I not only had to draw the solder outwards but also draw the solder along the gap between the ring and the jumpring. After the first solder ball was drawn, the binding wire could be removed. The next piece of solder can now be placed next to where the last was drawn along and the same technique is repeated until the whole jumpring is soldered on the whole way around.

The technique is then repeated on the other side with the other jumpring, including the binding wire, boracic acid and flux. Once both jumprings have been soldered in place onto the wide ring, I then made sure that the solder had run evenly the whole way around the ring and adjusted if needed by drawing the solder with heat to where it was needed. As I said before I thoroughly enjoyed learning this technique as it is an important skill that I will use often when creating pieces of jewellery.

Secondly the other important skills I performed this week was perfecting my emerying, polishing and rhodium plating techniques and skills to provide our Refreshing Ring Rejuvination service to jewellery which show wear and tear, such as scratches, dents, low polish and have no longer got rhodium plating left on them. Performing these skills and perfecting them as much as I can is helping me to become a good jeweller and cement these skills into my mind for the future.

Well I am off to create more exciting jewellery, in particular a 9ct white gold bangle which I will have finished by the time I speak to you next. I am looking forward to telling you about the process and also showing a photo of the final piece.

Until then, have a fantastic week,

Cheers, Holly

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Jewellery Definitions Page

  • Claw setting – is a setting made from either gold or platinum with prongs or wire like structure to hold your diamond secure
  • Bezel setting – is a setting which fully surrounds the diamond or gemstone in place with gold or platinum being “rubbed over” the edge of the stone
  • Half bezel setting – the same as above but where only half of the diamond or gemstone is covered
  • Bead setting –Tiny beads are raised by pushing gold or platinum over the edges of the diamond
  • Thread setting – a series of diamonds are set generally in a line down the shoulder of the ring using the same technique as the above
  • Pave setting – is a style of setting multiple diamonds using the same technique as a bead setting. This is generally used in a blanket effect with small diamonds
  • Channel setting – a channel is opened to fit exactly the size diamond and then a groove is cut to allow the diamond to sit inside the channel. Once the diamond sits correctly the gold is pushed over the girdle of the diamond to hold it secure
  • Shank – the jewellery term for the band component of a ring
  • Shoulder – the part of a ring that is between the shank and the setting, generally there are diamonds set into the shoulder to enhance the beauty and sparkle of the centre diamond
  • Setting – the component of a ring that holds the diamond or gemstone in place
  • Platinum – a precious metal used in jewellery manufacturing which exhibits a superior whiteness and brightness compared to white gold
  • Palladium – a natural element from the platinum family of elements, generally used in the alloy when making premium grade white gold to help improve the whiteness and brightness of the gold
  • Rhodium – a natural element found in the platinum group of elements.
  • Rhodium plating – a liquid solution that coats the white gold through a process called electrolysis and makes it whiter and brighter compared to its natural state which is considered grey compared to platinum
  • 24ct gold – pure gold with no other metal or element being added to it
  • 18ct gold – a 75% pure alloy of gold silver and copper. Considered the perfect mix for working in gold, it retains most of the inherent shine, strength and other properties that gold has compared to the other metals it is alloyed with.
  • 9ct gold – a 37.5% pure alloy of gold, silver and copper. Is a more commercially affordable alloy of gold because the actual content of gold is less than 50% in the mix. Because of the amount of extra alloy being added to create 9ct gold, it makes the alloy particularly brittle and can be prone to stress fractures and breaks, often mistaken as being stronger than 18ct gold.
  • Ring mandrel – a rod of steel used to measure the correct finger size when making a ring
  • Gold plating – a liquid solution that coats most precious metals with gold through a process called electrolysis
  • Enamel – comes in two types
    • Vitreous enamel – which is in a powder form when raw, once applied to the gold or platinum and then heated, it forms a glass like layer of colour in the area it was applied to. This can be colour blended and produces a very high lustre similar to that of glass
    • Cold mould enamel – is more like a plastic acrylic. It goes on like a paint and once cured it forms a high lustre finish where applied
  • Solder – an alloy of gold to the same carat but mixed with various elements to reduce the melting point so that when heated the gold solder will liquidise
  • Hard soldering – the process of heating up a piece of jewellery and applying silver, gold or platinum solder to a join between two or more pieces.
  • Soft soldering – the process of heating up two separate pieces of metal, not necessarily silver gold or platinum, and then applying a lead based type of solder. The melting point for the solder is considerably lower with this type of soldering than it is with hard soldering
  • Ring re-sizing – the process where your ring is either increased or decreased in finger size
  • Re-tipping – the process of repairing any worn out claws on a setting, by adding new strips of gold to the setting
  • Laser welding – a relatively new technology in the jewellery industry which allows us to use lasers which is super heated beams of light to spot weld two or more pieces of gold or platinum together. This process allows a far greater level of accuracy and cleanliness, than the traditional hard soldering technique.
  • CAD – a computerised designing system being introduced worldwide in the jewellery industry. It is the same idea as architectural CAD software.
  • Wax model – a wax mock up at 100% scale of a ring that will be created for you.
  • Fitting – an appointment with me that lets you look at the ring or piece of jewellery before any diamonds are set in it. I get the opportunity to make sure the size is 100% correct and that you are 100% happy with the look of the piece of jewellery
  • Engagement ring – a symbolic ring which represents the love and bright future a couple will share – given by the man to his lady love when he asks her to marry him.
  • Wedding ring – a ring presented to your fiancé on the day of your marriage. It is traditionally an unbroken circle representing “no end” in the relationship and everlasting love.
  • Eternity ring – a ring presented either at your 1st year anniversary or the birth of your first child – which ever happens first – it represents the fact that you are now wed for eternity
  • Wedding day Gift – traditionally this is a pair of earrings that match her engagement ring or a pair of cuff links that has some kind of family resemblance for him
  • Engraving – the process of marking gold or platinum with an inscription or pattern
  • Carat – the unit of measurement designed to measure the weight of diamonds and gemstones
  • Karat – the unit of measurement designed to measure the purity of gold
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Squash Lessons for Diamond Security

The pictures in today’s post come courtesy of Dr Marc Dussault, The Exponential Growth Strategist. At his recent Exponential Business Building Bootcamp, he demonstrated how a squash racquet gets broken from repeated use…

Broken Squash Racquet

You will see that on the “corners” of the racquet where it has broken, the break has been caused from repetitive damage to the same spot. In squash, as Marc explained, racquets are often broken where the same part of the racquet scrapes against the wall of the court from a well placed shot by your competitor, which forces you to retrieve the ball right up against the wall.

You are probably sitting there asking yourself what on earth does this have to do with jewellery and diamonds?

To make the connection for you – if your diamond setting is consistently damaged in the same place with repeated wear and tear, over time you run the risk of the setting becoming loose and the diamond falling out and being lost for ever…

Broken Racquet, Broken Setting = NIGHTMARE!

With a squash racquet there is no maintenance possible. When it breaks, you have to replace it.

The good news is that with your diamond jewellery it can and should be maintained regularly. At Eskae Private Jeweller, we have a service called the Refreshing Ring Rejuvenation to make sure your setting never gets loose so you never lose a diamond, pearl or precious gemstone.

Click on the hyperlink to go to our Refreshing Ring Rejuvenation page to find out everything you need to know.

We will make sure that -

  • The beadwork on your ring is correct and full – which means that the diamonds or gemstones are securely held in place
  • The bezel edge is safe and secure with enough metal over the diamond/gemstone.
  • The setting edge is secur enough of the diamond/gemstone.
  • There are NO chips, scratches, breaks or cleaves in the diamonds/gemstones.
  • The claws or setting edges are all in place and are not bent out of shape.
  • There is not too much wear on any of the exposed metal holding the diamond/gemstone in place.
  • Your jewellery is checked for damaged or loose diamonds or gemstones.
  • Your jewellery is professionally cleaned and polished so it looks like NEW again.
  • ALL scratches and marks on your jewellery are removed.
  • The white gold sections are re-rhodium plated to give your white gold a more brilliant lustre and hue.

The broken racquet – or your broken diamond setting – can be avoided.

At Eskae Private Jeweller we provide this service for our clients every 6 months, which is the recommended maintenance schedule for high-value jewelery. It gives us the opportunity to prevent any damage or loss to YOUR jewellery BEFORE any expensive restoration work is required.

It really is simple and easy to do – just give me a phone call or send me an email to book in your Refreshing Ring Rejuvenation so your rings are sparkling and clean just like when they were brand new!

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Private Jeweller

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