The pearl birthstone is a favourite of millions and is the only precious stone to be created by a living organism. Talk about a unique birthstone!

Origins

There are two types of pearls: Natural (non-nacreous) and Cultured (nacreous). Natural pearls happen accidentally, naturally and can occur in just about any salt or fresh-water mollusc. Coming in three basic forms, they can be shaped as whole-round pearls, blister pearls and blisters.

Nacreous pearls are formed by irritants, such as a single grain of sand that’s added by people. To create a the best and most valuable cultured pearl, the irritant should only be stimulated inside of the mollusc and nothing more, allowing nature to then take its course.

Cultured pearls come many different colours with two specific factors that determine its overall colour: Body Colour and Overtone. The Body Colour is the base of the pearl’s colouring, such as white, cream, black or gold whereas, the Overtone is considered to be the secondary colour or tint. This is the most visual colour, i.e. pink, rose, peacock or blue.

Unlike most other gemstones, pearls are extremely fragile and soft which makes a lot of room for marring and other small imperfections. Usually, the bigger a pearl is, the more imperfections it will contain which is why large, minimally marked natural pearls found in the wild are extremely rare and very seldom found for an affordable price.

In order to create a fine cultured pearl, professionals let pearled oysters sit for a minimum of two to three years. This develops what is called nacre and gives the pearl its layer of protection as well as that beautiful sheen with ridges and swoops.

Mystical Qualities

Also known as the Stone of Sincerity, pearls signify faith, charity and innocence to enhance one’s personal integrity, bring the truth to light and inhibit boisterous behaviour. Other mystical qualities derive from ancient Chinese myths that say pearls fell from the sky where dragons fought, ancient legends that state pearls are the tears of gods and ancient Greek legends that believed pearls were drops of love to be worn and prevent newlywed women from crying.

Besides its legendary qualities, pearls are believed to also hold healing powers. People who believe strongly in a pearl’s healing power, ingest them to cure bloating and biliousness along with stronger powers of increasing chance of childbirth and easing pain from giving birth.

Gift Ideas

In today’s day and time, pearls are used to symbolise June birthdays and 30^th wedding anniversaries. One quality pearls did carry over from ancient legends is the purity and innocence that shows through when worn. There is something so wholesome about pearls, alone, that make it a favourite for office wear, formal occasions and most popularly, bridal jewellery.

Women are coming up with newer, more modern ways of wearing pearls by adding other precious stones, such as diamonds or coloured gemstones to make the pearl pop. Another popular way women are wearing pearl necklaces is by either layering them or wearing long strands of pearls

However you choose to gift a woman with pearls, whether it’s a fancy ring, gorgeous earrings or a magnificent necklace, you can’t ever go wrong because she’ll love them the minute she lays her eyes on her brand new pearls!

And women, don’t forget that pearls can be given to men as birthday and anniversary gifts too! While you won’t see a man with a string of pearls around his neck, men do enjoy tie clips, cufflinks and money clips accented or set by pearl. As long as it keeps a masculine look, don’t be afraid to give a valuable gift of pearl to the guy in your life!

Art Deco Jewellery Today

The world has recently seen a stunning return to boldly styled, richly jewelled, statement-making jewellery of the glamorous Art Deco era, in all its shimmering splendour.

Many of the pieces we create here at Eskae Jewellers take inspiration from the decadent Art Deco era, designed with a new, updated interpretation of the “bold and statement-making” Art Deco pieces. It’s extremely fascinating so take a few minutes to read more more about the origins of Art Deco Jewellery by clicking the hyperlink!

Art Deco Jewellery and You

A fashion favourite that’s a must-have for most people, Art Deco jewellery takes a twist on classic styles of jewellery by creating a brand new genre for jewellery lovers alike. Including a combination of materials and geometric designs and shapes, art deco jewellery can be formed by using different techniques to form these timeless, one-of-a-kind masterpieces.

Art Deco jewellery techniques that are commonly used include:

• Glass Art Jewellery
• Machined Art Jewellery
• Jewelled Art Jewellery
• Hammered Metal Jewellery

Whether or not you’re aware, chances are that you’ve purchased a piece of Art Deco jewellery, knowingly or unknowingly. If this purchase was intentional, then you’re familiar with what types of Art Deco jewellery that suit your personality.

If you bought this type of jewellery unintentionally, then here are a few suggestions to fit right into the two most commonly seen personality types!

The Socialite/Partier:

Tending to hit all of the smartest parties or social events, your style is colourful and a bit flamboyant to make a bold impression. Look for larger pieces of Art Deco jewellery with uniquely crafted metal and brightly coloured gems or diamonds.

Rings: Your ring will have to tell a story about you! Since you love fun, your ring needs to reinstate that message.

While almost all women love chunky rings, this style will look especially spectacular with a medium to large colourful stone with a geometrically complimenting frame that’s been customised especially for your personality. Platinum and titanium are amongst the most popular of this look since they compliment all styles with these types of stones.

Earrings: While traditional tear drop earrings would look good on anyone, an Art Deco chandelier style designed in an abstract form with a bold and colourful design pattern would look even better. Earrings are a lot fun without any specific regulations so let your imagination go ahead and get the better of you!

Necklaces and Pendants: Even before other people’s eyes wander off to decorated fingers or ears, they focus on the neck first. This is what draws in people’s attention and lets them decide if they should look further to other pieces of jewellery – the ‘attention grabber’, if you will.

This makes the necklace vitally important to your overall appearance which means that heavy choker necklaces or an extra long, asymmetrical chain with pendants, charms or different coloured precious gems, glass or stones will stop others in their track.

Remember, just because you’re wearing bold statement jewellery, it doesn’t mean lose control and go overboard! If your earrings scream your personality, tone it down with the rings and necklaces – the same goes for necklaces, bracelets and rings.

Conservative and Classy:

You like the finer things in life; you are a person of great taste and take pride in what you do, where you go and who you associate yourself with. It helps to have Art Deco jewellery that portrays your conservative side without overdoing it and yet, still adds that extra ‘oomph’ of class!

Here are a few ideas for different types of jewellery that would look great on you:

Rings: While there are many different types of rings that will fit right into this category, to narrow it down a bit, think about the one place where you find yourself the most. This could be your office, your kid’s school with the other moms or dinner parties.

Some are under the impression that Art Deco jewellery is too casual or fun for this personality but guess what? They’re wrong! While you definitely need to take a more toned down path, you can still add a bit of funkiness to your single studded rings by keeping your ring white and black, i.e. a hammered platinum metal band with an irregularly cut onyx stone in the middle.

Earrings: Perhaps you’re more comfortable with a simple pair of studded diamond earrings but now it’s time to step out of your comfort zone by adding a little pizzazz with an elegant pair of drop earrings.

Pearls are very conservative but instead of wearing single pearl studs, have a funky setting customised specifically for you so that you now have to gorgeous drops of pearls hanging from your ears!

Necklaces and Pendants: Again, not being the type of person who likes to draw tons of attention your way, keep this look simple, yet classy by wearing a thicker chain than you’re used to with a colourful, multifaceted rare stone without a visible setting and voila!

It will give all of your friends something great to talk about while at the same time, keeping it simple!

Remember that Art Deco jewellery doesn’t necessarily have to be funky to be in the Art Deco class. It just means that your typical jewellery will include a slight twist but it’s up to you to decide how far to take it.

So there you have it – Art Deco jewellery can be made to suit all personality types while at the same time, bringing the recognition it AND you deserve!

Since the last two thirds of this segment have been about how being unattractive and/or short in stature may have an ugly effect of lower salaries or opportunities, we’ll turn it around and see how being attractive can also be misconstrued within the workplace.

It’s what’s known as the beauty premium. Just to give you a little background on how this concept was created, Dr. Daniel Hamermesh and Jeff Biddle conducted a study in 1994 which indicated that workers of above-average beauty earn more than workers with below average looks.[i] Dr. Hamermesh took this data one step further stating that the ‘beauty premium’ exists in all industries, even those where beauty would not seem to matter.[ii]

This caused an uproar because what company wants to admit that they do, in fact, make a very quiet but very biased, not to mention, shallow decision when hiring a person? And as we all know, once any controversial study is completed, another must follow to negate such discriminatory data.

The logic coin gets tossed up in the air and the question then becomes: Is the beauty premium all it’s cracked up to be?

The answer is absolutely yes…that is, initially. As with anything that sounds too good to be true, this is certainly one of those instances. While beauty gets you in the door and offered a higher salary, it’s often quite a different story after the first couple of months.

An experiment completed by Markus Mobius of the Harvard economics department and Tanya Rosenblat of Wesleyan University where pretty people were asked to perform certain tasks, they found that employers overestimated the productivity of beautiful people. The economists estimated that about 15 percent to 20 percent of the beauty premium is a result of the self-confidence effect, while oral and visual communication each contributes about 40 percent.[iii]

According to a survey done by Newsweek, looks matter in every aspect of the workplace and they matter even more for women[iv] indicating that beauty can be a double-edged sword that can either make your career come to a halt or propel it forward.

There was a recent lawsuit filed against Citigroup (you’ve probably heard about it) by a woman who stated she was fired solely because her bosses thought she was too hot.[v] Awww, she must have it so rough, right?

While chances are this particular woman is probably milking publicity for fame (please note her photo shoot to back up her horrifying experience), the honest truth is when a woman is considered beautiful in the workplace, many times she loses credibility the higher up the corporate ladder she climbs. Then comes the famous, ‘Oh, she only got there because of her looks’ snub that’s heard ‘round the entire office.

So what’s a pretty girl to do?

The answer most professionals give is simply to dress more conservatively, which is just common sense but do you want to know the real trick? It’s adding a pearl necklace!

It may sound a little strange that an oyster can spit out one little pearl that can forever change your destiny. That may sound a bit dramatic; however, this tiny little accessory can make all the difference in a female’s professional appearance. Pearls make such a strong impression in the corporate environment because they’re timeless, old-fashioned but forever trendy, sentimental pieces that for some reason or the other, keeps a woman looking credible and trustworthy. Who knows the exact reason for this? Maybe it’s just the simple fact that because our mothers wore it, their mothers wore it and their mothers did, it carries a safe and comforting feeling.

To flawlessly pull off this look in a way that’s office savvy and at the same time, fashionable, the idea is to wear one set of pearls at a time. If you’re going to wear pearl earrings, then forego the necklace and bracelet. Maybe you’re a bracelet kind of person in which case, drop the earrings and necklace – so on and so forth. If opting for the necklace, remember to keep it collarbone level to draw attention upwards!

Remember that pearls are not just an accessory; they’re a means to bring focus to the professional side of you and trust me, pearls never let a girl down!

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Private Jeweller

References:

[ii] http://media.www.harbus.org/media/storage/paper343/news/2008/11/17/Viewpoints/The-Beauty.Premium-3547361.shtml

[iii] http://www.thirdage.com/career-transitions/the-beauty-premium-why-good-looks-pay

[iv] http://www.usnews.com/science/articles/2010/08/10/business-school-research-finds-beautiful-women-face-discrimination.html

[v] http://www.villagevoice.com/2010-06-01/news/is-this-woman-too-hot-to-work-in-a-bank/1/

Studies show attractive people tend to fare better in the corporate world because good looks appear to go hand-in-hand with self confidence which matters A LOT in the workplace. People are walking advertisements of themselves which is portrayed by the way they dress and present themselves.

When people aren’t confident about themselves, they tend to go into ‘hiding’, which instead, creates the opposite effect. Those who want to hide excess weight might wear baggy clothes making them appear even bigger than before. Men who miss long, lost strands of hair on top of their head may hide behind hats or a comb-over, which has yet to make the Top 10 Fashion list. Women who are self conscious of teenage acne scars might hide behind excessive makeup creating a clown-like resemblance. These are all ways that many people try to cover their flaws when, as you might have noticed, more attention is being drawn to them.

Appearing ‘corporately attractive’ (meaning tall, well dressed and good-looking) may sound discriminating and be a controversial subject to broach but you can’t change certain stereotypes. You can, however, create attractive illusions by learning how to subtly hide flaws by creating an overall balance.

While wearing the right type of jewellery won’t magically lose those extra pounds or gain those couple of inches, it WILL trick the human eye at first glance, helping you add a couple of beauty points overall.

Try applying these Jewellery Do’s and Don’ts to your business attire and see if you don’t feel more confident, look better and receive tons of compliments!

Jewellery Do’s and Don’ts:

Do’s

• Do think vertically - Perhaps the most famous rule of any fashion guru is to never wear stripes horizontally because it adds pounds. This applies to all aspects of apparel and isn’t limited only to stripes. Wearing jewellery that drapes downward rather than hugging your body can have a slimming effect. Make jewellery and accessories work for you, not against you!
• Do use symmetry – The highest emphasis on what deems a person as good-looking is held within the facial features. Symmetry is more important in the face, rather than the body as a whole, because it gives the appearance of good and psychological health. Wearing single stud earrings or single pearl earrings adds to the overall effect of symmetry, oftentimes drawing attention out at evenly, rather than pinpointing specific areas of the face.
• Do wear big jewellery if overweight – Chunky jewellery, big stone pendants or collarettes help balance weight without weighing the body down. While wide bracelets make wrists appear thinner, there is one exception to this is for people who carry extra weight on a small body frames. Because wrists are the dead giveaway of frame size, they’re the one area of the body that won’t pack on the pounds, in which case, nix the bracelets and stick to only earrings, necklaces and rings.
• Do wear long jewellery to add height – When lengthening height, the last thing you want to do is bog it down with excessive amounts of jewellery and accessories. Keep jewellery long but keep it simple. Choosing long chain and opera necklaces with matching dangle or drop earrings will perfect your illusion of supermodel height!

Don’ts

• Don’t wear loud jewellery – In an office, especially a small office, wearing loud, jingly jewellery is just as annoying as someone wearing excessive perfume to the point of knocking people unconscious. While it may be trendy, it’s certainly unprofessional and distracting, drawing ALL of the positive attention away from the amazing look you worked so hard to achieve.
• Don’t over-accessorize – Sure, most people have many favourite pieces of jewellery or a lot of jewellery containing their favourite gemstones that they feel they must wear all at once but that doesn’t mean you should.. For those who insist on wearing a lot of jewellery, remember that in the office, it’s very distracting and even worse, others might actually perceive you as superficial. Choose either one matching jewellery set or keep it toned down to one pair of earrings, one bracelet, one necklace and one ring on each hand.
• Don’t ‘over-match’ your jewellery – Jewellery should hold its own while emphasizing physical features and attire. If you’re wearing an all black business suit, why not create your own fashion trends by adding colourful gemstones that pop?
• Don’t limit jewellery to just women – Men can also wear jewellery and accessorize in ways that show masculinity! Choosing the right wristwatch or ring can show power and stamina, as long as it’s not too flashy and matches body proportions.

While these tricks are great for boosting your confidence and enhancing your attractiveness, the most important thing you can do for yourself is to continue taking the utmost care of your body. Get enough sleep to get rid of your dark circles, stop drinking large amounts of caffeine and if you’re a smoker, stop smoking to rejuvenate your skin, get on a healthy diet to remove pesky zits and exercise to stay healthy.

When you feel great, you look great! Everyone CAN look attractive in their own way; it’s just a matter of emphasizing the nice parts and hiding the flaws so that you can put yourself on display in the corporate spotlight!

Sam Kritsotakis
Eskae Private Jeweller

South Sea pearls get their name from the location of the white-lipped variety of the pinctada maxima oyster – also known as the Silver Lip Oyster – which provides the perfect canvas for the South Sea pearl. The oyster is typically found around the coast of Indonesia, Australia and the Philippines. The pearls produced within the South Sea are cultured and of the saltwater variety, generally in colours of white, silver and gold.

The pinctada maxima oyster is much larger than those that typically create Akoya and freshwater pearls, ensuring that South Sea pearls are much larger. The pinctada maxima oyster is also much more rare and sensitive, making cultivation of the pearl that much more challenging. As the pinctada maxima lives and cultivates its pearls in the wild, production can be limited. With obstacles to its creation firmly in place, the South Sea pearl is more valuable than other pearls.

In addition to its larger size, the South Sea pearl is also known to offer a smoothness and roundness that is exceptional when compared with other pearls. The almost silver color of the natural, South Sea pearl is luminous, offering a unique beauty that is truly all its own. The most extraordinary and rare of the available pearls, South Sea pearls create exquisite pieces of jewellery.

When the South Sea pearl is farmed, a mother of pearl bead is placed inside the oyster to help start the process that will result in a pearl. The pearl famers often hope the bead, the right conditions and a little bit of luck will help to contribute to the creation of a perfectly round, clean, beautiful, lustrous South Sea pearl.

The unpredictability of the process involved in the forming of the South Sea pearl dictates that not all pearls will emerge from the oyster as perfectly round or the same size. A South Sea pearl that is a perfect sphere is the ideal piece, yet the slightest environmental change can lead to changes in shape, create blemishes or ensure that no pearl is created at all.

With this potential variation in the South Sea pearl, three shapes are typically found, including round, semi-round and button. Round is ideal when the shape is perfect. It is measured with a caliper and the variation in the circumference should be less than 2 percent. A semi-round pearl gives the appearance of round, yet its measured circumference is more than 2 percent. The variation in circumference on the button pearl is roughly 20 percent, yet tall buttons can also appear to be round.

There is truly no pearl as exquisite as the South Sea pearl, but our journey has not yet ended. Next, we will explore the Keshi pearl and the interesting process that leads to its creation. See you then!

So far it has been a very exciting week and a half. I have been lucky enough to start not only making jewellery straight away but begin creating and designing my own pieces of jewellery too.

My first day began with making probably the most exciting piece – a silver gents wedding style band. This is my first ring and piece of jewellery I have ever made, which made it even more special and exciting.

I started creating the ring by rolling out a piece of silver on a machine called a ‘rolling mill’, I then used a handsaw to cut the metal to size, I then learnt a very important technique in making jewellery – ‘soldering’. This is where you are able to join two or more pieces of metal together, in this case the ends of metal are soldered together to form one flowing circle. After soldering, I was shown how to file the metal to make it even and smooth. Lastly I put a bevelled edge on each side of the ring, which gives the ring interest and definition. All I need to do now to finish the piece is to polish it so that it comes up nice and shiny.

One of the other pieces of jewellery I hand-made  was a pair of 18ct yellow gold and Akoya salt water pearl earrings. Sam gave me a design to create – a smooth shepard  hook of fine wire, with one Akoya pearl suspended on the end of each pair. I found this piece quite challenging, as I had to begin by rolling and drawing out a piece of gold into very thin wire. (I must say, muscles are definitely required for this kind of work). Another reason why the earrings were challenging to make was that earrings of course need to be completely matching. And as the hooks were hand made individually, it was tricky matching and bending them into the same shapes. During the making of the earrings, I was able to learn a lot about using pliers and which directions and positions to place them, in order to achieve a particular curve.

18ct Yellow gold and Akoya Pearl Earrings

This week the most important technique I learnt was what sort of flame to use on various heating techniques e.g. if I am soldering something I need to use a stronger smaller flame, which has more blue in the tip of the flame, as opposed to a technique called ‘annealing’ which is where you heat up the metal to make it more malleable. In annealing I need to use what Sam calls a ‘fluffy’ flame, which not only has a blue flame, but the tip of the flame has an orange colour to it, it is softer and less aggressive than a soldering flame, which allows me to achieve a more even heat across the length of the gold or silver I am working with.

18ct Yellow Gold and Akoya Pearl Earrings

All in all, last week has been great! I met suppliers, began my journey as a jeweller and even got to create some fun pieces of jewellery.

I can’t wait to tell you what this week entails.

Cheers, Holly

As a result, we have developed the freshwater cultured pearls. A freshwater cultured pearl is one that comes from a freshwater mussel. In many markets, such pearls must be legally referred to as freshwater cultured pearls by governing bodies of commerce.

While such pearls have been produced in the United States and Japan, the production is now almost exclusive to China. This process is fascinating as it does not rely on a foreign substance to find its way into the mussel, but instead on technicians performing a grafting process on the mussel.

The grafting process requires a technician to make a small incision on the upper valve of the mussel and insert a piece of tissue from a donor mussel. This tissue is then considered to be the foreign substance by the mussel and it will begin the natural process of coating the tissue with a protective material.

While the cockscomb pearl mussel was once preferred in the Chinese cultured pearl industry for its ability to produce as many as 50 pearls, the low quality of the pearls earned them the name, “rice krispy pearls”. The favored mussel is now the triangle shell as the pearl quality is superior, even if the total quantity is fewer.

Freshwater cultured pearls are delivered to a first-stage after they are harvested from the shells of the mussels. This first stop is generally where the pearls will be cleaned and sorted according to size and shape. Once sorted, the pearls go through a standard treatment of maeshori, which includes immersion in a warm and cold chemical solution, bleach, drill and polish. (If a pearl exhibits strong coloration, it will only go through maeshori.)

When the pearls have completed the standard sorting process, they are then matched with like-sized and shaped pearls onto temporary strands. These strands are then matched again into hanks, which is a group of strands comprised of five to 10 temporary strands. At this point, the pearls are considered to be ready for the wholesale market.

Freshwater cultured pearls do differ from saltwater pearls in that they are typically not as round as saltwater pearls and do not have the same sharp luster and shine. Freshwater cultured pearls do, however, appear in a wide variety of natural colors and shapes and are more durable than saltwater pearls. They also make a nice contribution to any jewellery collection where a budget must be adhered to as they typically cost less, because of the farming aspect, than the saltwater variety.

My overall preference in the choice of pearl depends entirely on the jewelry setting and the purpose of wear. If you are making a fashion statement, freshwater cultured pearls are a logical choice. If you want to keep with tradition and display an authentic pearl, nothing compares with a saltwater pearl.

Join me next time as I take a closer look at the unique pearls found in the South Sea.

A marriage proposal is one of the most important and personal events of a lifetime.  A very special engagement ring will reflect the significance of this event.  When you become engaged, you and your partner can create a lasting symbol of your unique love for each other with a custom engagement ring design. With the help of an experienced jeweller, the process of designing a custom engagement ring will bring you and your loved one closer and help you create a ring that both of you will treasure forever.

The Design Process

Once you’ve decided to create an engagement ring that will reflect you and your partner’s personalities and taste, the next step is to consult a jeweller who specializes in custom engagement ring design.  An experienced jeweller has the technical expertise required to guide you through the design process.  Your jeweller will explain the process to you in simple terms and make sure you have input at every step.  You will gain an understanding and appreciation of how much is involved in custom designing and creation of your engagement ring.

Your jeweller will help you make a series of important design decisions related to ring design, including:

• Diamonds – Which one is Right for you? – Your jeweller will help run you through what makes a diamond sparkle with “Fire and Brilliance” and how the different characteristics affect the value of the diamond. Diamonds are a traditional choice for engagement rings, but a truly unique design can be created using other types of stones.  Emeralds, rubies and pearls can be striking alternatives to diamonds.
• The Size and Shape of the Diamond or Gemstone – Once the type of stone is chosen, your jeweller can recommend suitable sizes and shapes.  When recommending a diamond or gemstone, your jeweller will take into account your personalities, what you want to communicate through your engagement ring and a host of other considerations.
• The Style of the Setting – The design details of the setting will have a major impact on the overall style and look of the ring.  The setting can be traditional, with a clean and crisp look that will allow your diamond or gemstone to sparkle with its own “fire and brilliance” or it may be embellished with side stones, engraving or filigrees, adding more detail and intrigue to the design.
• Platinum or Gold? – Which one is Best for your Setting? – The setting design, the diamond and gemstones used and the ring budget will determine the best metal for the engagement ring.

After you have expressed your design preferences, your jeweller will create a custom design for your approval.  Many couples have seen another ring that they want to copy, or they may want to combine 2 or 3 design elements from other rings.  If this is the case with your ring design, feel free to bring in drawings or photos to give your jeweller an idea of what you have in mind.  A talented jeweller will incorporate these suggestions into a single cohesive ring design, adding any details that may be needed to complete the design and convey what you would like to have represented in your ring.

The Surprise Engagement Ring

A marriage proposal and engagement ring are often planned as a surprise.  In this case, the design decisions will be made solely by the man.  His fiancée’s lifestyle, looks, body size and shape, personality and taste in jewellery should be taken into account when designing a custom engagement ring.  Family members or close friends can be a great help in creating a design that will be cherished for a lifetime.

Wedding Band Considerations

The design for your wedding bands should be considered when designing your engagement ring, especially if a bridal set consisting of the two rings is desired.  Using similar stones, metals and design motifs is the best way to tie together the engagement and wedding rings.

Generally speaking, if you use a similar design in both engagement ring and wedding bands, you will gain the benefit of having them look they were designed together at the same time.  When the engagement and wedding ring are worn together they will truly look like a matched set and not two unmatched rings that were bought at different times and places and thrown together.

Custom Engagement Ring Budget

You and your partner need to be aware that a custom designed engagement ring may cost a bit more than purchasing a mass market existing design due to the exclusivity of having an engagement ring designed specifically for you.  It’s important to establish a budget and to work with your jeweller to stick with your budget.  Your jeweller will be prepared to offer many suggestions on how to stick with your budget.  Be prepared to listen to your jeweller’s suggestions and work with the options that are presented to you.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller -Your Private Jeweller

Pearls are something that truly emulates miracles in nature, the idea of something so beautiful emerging from a process so simple leaves many in awe. If you are not familiar with the birth of a pearl, they are the result of a biological process inside a living creature – an oyster. (While clams and mussels also have the ability to produce a pearl, those will be discussed in a future post in this series on the pearl.)

As an oyster is a living creature; it moves, grows and eats just like other living creatures. The two valves (one part of a two-part shell) usually stay open to allow the oyster to eat. This process can sometimes also allow a foreign substance to get between the shell and the mantle, or the organ that produces the oyster’s shell.

When this happens, the mantle is irritated by the foreign substance and its natural reaction is to cover the irritant with the same substance it uses to create the shell. This substance is known as nacre.

The oyster continues this process over and over, covering the irritant with a number of layers of nacre. The result is the formation of a pearl. The most valuable pearls are those that were shaped beautifully within the oyster; but not all resulting pearls are the perfectly rounded objects you find in jewelry settings. Pearls that form in uneven shapes are known as baroque pearls.

Round and unique products of nature, pearls formed perfectly through this natural process are found in a range of colors such as white, red, black, gray, blue and green. Pearls can be found all over the world, although black pearls are indigenous to the South Pacific.

Aside from their shape and color, pearls vary in a number of others ways. While we have already discussed the natural pearl, there are also cultured pearls often found on the market. The process for creating these pearls is very similar to that of the natural process, although pearl harvesters help move the creation of the pearl along by cutting a small slit in the mantle tissue and inserting an irritant.

Both cultured and natural pearls discussed here take place in saltwater environments, although pearls are also formed in fresh water. This process is different from that of saltwater pearls and requires a much closer look. Join us next time as I continue this series on pearls by diving in for a closer look at fresh water cultured pearls.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

Pearls are formed inside the shell of particular types of mollusks: as a defense mechanism to a potentially threatening irritant such as a parasite or a foreign body inside its shell, the mollusk secretes a protein which forms around the irritant, which in turn creates a pearl around the irritant to seal it off from potentially causing damage to the mollusks insides.

The difference between natural and cultured pearls focuses on whether the pearl was created spontaneously by nature — without human intervention — or with human aid.

The mantle (or shell) of the mollusk deposits layers of calcium carbonate (CaCO₃) in the form of the mineral aragonite or a mixture of aragonite and calcite (both crystalline forms of calcium carbonate) held together by an organic horn-like compound called conchiolin. The combination of aragonite and conchiolin is called nacre, which makes up mother-of-pearl.

The commonly held belief that a grain of sand acts as the irritant is in fact rarely the case. Typical irritants  include organic material, parasites, or even damage that displaces mantle tissue to another part of the animal’s body into the inside of the mollusks membrane. These small particles or organisms enter the animal when the shell valves are open for feeding or respiration. In cultured pearls, the irritant is typically a cut piece of the mantle, together with processed shell beads, the combination of which the animal accepts into its body.

Natural pearls are nearly 100% calcium carbonate and conchiolin. It is thought that natural pearls form under a set of accidental conditions when a microscopic intruder or parasite enters a bivalve mollusk, and settles inside the shell. The mollusk, being irritated by the intruder, secretes the calcium carbonate and conchiolin to cover the irritant. This secretion process is repeated many times, forming many layers of nacre thus producing a pearl. Natural pearls come in many shapes, with perfectly round ones being comparatively rare.

The rounder and more perfect the pearl is the more rare and more valuable they become, in a similar way to the way diamonds are valued as they become bigger and better in quality.

Without getting overly technical here, a pearl is basically formed when a foreign body enters the animals membrane while the shell is open for feeding or breathing. The mollusk then secretes a protein called nacre to cover the foreign body, which will help minimise any damage it can potentially do to the muscular structure inside the shell. It does not stop there as the mollusk will continually secrete the nacre to form many many layers over the foreign body, which over time creates the pearl we are after.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller