Tag Archive for 'Jewellery'

Eskae Private Jeweller – Our New Apprentice!

Published on September 10, 2010 in Eskae Private Jeweller, Hand-made Jewellery and Pearls. 0 Comments Tags: , , , .

Firstly I would like to introduce myself to you, my name is Holly, I am 23 years old and last week I started my jeweller’s apprenticeship with Sam at Eskae Private Jeweller.

So far it has been a very exciting week and a half. I have been lucky enough to start not only making jewellery straight away but begin creating and designing my own pieces of jewellery too.

My first day began with making probably the most exciting piece – a silver gents wedding style band. This is my first ring and piece of jewellery I have ever made, which made it even more special and exciting.

I started creating the ring by rolling out a piece of silver on a machine called a ‘rolling mill’, I then used a handsaw to cut the metal to size, I then learnt a very important technique in making jewellery – ‘soldering’. This is where you are able to join two or more pieces of metal together, in this case the ends of metal are soldered together to form one flowing circle. After soldering, I was shown how to file the metal to make it even and smooth. Lastly I put a bevelled edge on each side of the ring, which gives the ring interest and definition. All I need to do now to finish the piece is to polish it so that it comes up nice and shiny.

One of the other pieces of jewellery I hand-made  was a pair of 18ct yellow gold and Akoya salt water pearl earrings. Sam gave me a design to create – a smooth shepard  hook of fine wire, with one Akoya pearl suspended on the end of each pair. I found this piece quite challenging, as I had to begin by rolling and drawing out a piece of gold into very thin wire. (I must say, muscles are definitely required for this kind of work). Another reason why the earrings were challenging to make was that earrings of course need to be completely matching. And as the hooks were hand made individually, it was tricky matching and bending them into the same shapes. During the making of the earrings, I was able to learn a lot about using pliers and which directions and positions to place them, in order to achieve a particular curve.

18ct Yellow gold and Akoya Pearl Earrings

This week the most important technique I learnt was what sort of flame to use on various heating techniques e.g. if I am soldering something I need to use a stronger smaller flame, which has more blue in the tip of the flame, as opposed to a technique called ‘annealing’ which is where you heat up the metal to make it more malleable. In annealing I need to use what Sam calls a ‘fluffy’ flame, which not only has a blue flame, but the tip of the flame has an orange colour to it, it is softer and less aggressive than a soldering flame, which allows me to achieve a more even heat across the length of the gold or silver I am working with.

18ct Yellow Gold and Akoya Pearl Earrings

All in all, last week has been great! I met suppliers, began my journey as a jeweller and even got to create some fun pieces of jewellery.

I can’t wait to tell you what this week entails.

Cheers, Holly

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Cufflinks: Rooted in History, Steeped in Style

Published on September 8, 2010 in Designer Jewellery, Hand-made Jewellery, Jewellery, Mens Jewellery and Wedding Jewellery. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , .

The cufflink is an interesting adornment rooted in tradition. Before cufflinks were ever conceived, buttons were used by tailors as decoration for clothing as a gentleman’s attire was typically held together by pins, laces and straps. The cufflink was not even a possibility until the worked buttonhole was developed during the Renaissance. This advancement drove the button to the mainstream as a means to fasten clothing.

The post-Renaissance era in the 1600s saw the birth of the cufflink, displayed as two ornate buttons, attached in the middle with a link of chain. Thus, the upper classes of Europe, Great Britain especially, had a unique way to customize a man’s clothing.

To meet a growing demand, jewellers created “sleeve buttons” with designs etched or stamped into silver or gold. Such buttons were often encrusted with previous stones and the mark of a gentleman was affixed in the wearing of the cufflink.

The London Gazette in 1684 featured one of the earliest descriptions of a cufflink, which included a pair of what was referred to as cuff buttons set with diamonds. In 1686, the same publication referred to cuff buttons made of golden enamel. Further evidence of cufflinks in the 17th century was found in Suffolk, England. A decorated gold single chain cufflink has been found that originated in that era.

While the history varies somewhat depending upon the source, the use of cufflinks on a consistent basis was not seen until the mid-nineteenth century. It was at this time that the ever-present ruffles on the shirt were replaced with minimal sleeves that allowed more functionality in the wear. In particular, the French Cuff arrived – also known as the Double Cuff, Poignet Mousquetaire and the Musketeer’s Cuff – creating the perfect platform for the introduction of the cufflink as a standard part of attire for first class gentlemen.

This piece of adornment was not meant only for the upper class, however. By the 1860s, the cufflink found a place in the mainstream. Credit can be given to jewellers such as Child & Child in London and Krementz & Co in New York as they both were responsible for introducing cufflinks within a price range and style that fit the budget and taste of the general public.

While the cufflink enjoyed widespread acceptance as a must-have adornment on the gentleman’s shirt, the industry suffered a setback in the late twentieth century when shirt manufacturers began to mass produce dress and tuxedo shirts with buttons on the cuff. Companies such as Tiffany and Cartier found this merely a distraction and instead created cufflinks that continue to appeal to the masses.

As personalization is one of the biggest trends at play today, cufflinks are the perfect way for you to personalize your attire. Whether you hope to demonstrate a tradition, match a suit or simply make a statement, cufflinks offer a world of possibilities that perfectly top any style today.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Private Jeweller

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Alexandrite – the Gemstone That Was Named for a Russian Tsar

Published on August 26, 2010 in Alexandrite and Gemstones. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , .

You just might feel a little like royalty if you choose a jewellery piece made with Alexandrite, the gem named after Russia’s 19th century Tsar Alexander II.

Alexandrite possesses unique characteristics in that its tint or colour continuously changes; thus, depending upon what you wear as well, the setting that you’re in, and,  more particularly, the lighting situation surrounding you, the gem will take on different shades and tones.  For numerous jewellery-owners, this fact alone makes Alexandrite an essential part of their jewellery collections!

Alexandrite History and Info

Originally found in Russia’s Ural Mountains, Alexandrite remains incredibly rare.  In fact, Alexandrite wasn’t even known to modern man until the early 1900s.  What a shame that antiquity never had the opportunity to get to know this incredible gem!

Today, Alexandrite has been found in other places around the globe, including Brazil and Sri Lanka.  However, it still is far from being abundant (and some of the deposits are hardly usable from a jewellery point of view), so collectors need to take this into consideration when budgeting for Alexandrite jewellery, which can get a little expensive because of this rarity factor.

One of Alexandrite’s most magical qualities is that fact that it never seems to stay the same colour!  Depending on the shades around it as well as the time of day (e.g., natural sunlight versus man-made lighting), Alexandrite will literally change before the wearer’s eyes!  Sometimes it seems green, other times it appears blue… or even deep red!

Alexandrite’s colour shifts aren’t magic; they are based on hard science.  Different frequencies found within the various types of light make the stone’s colour change.  This means if you head out for your lunch break, the Alexandrite gemstone in your ring will be one colour; but when you get back into the office you will see that it is very definitely another colour due to the change in light sources.

Alexandrite - and its two colours!

Folklore and Legend

Because Alexandrite hasn’t enjoyed a lengthy popularity due to its relatively recent unearthing, there aren’t many legends associated with it.  One of the only ones is that because it was found on the day that the Tsar Alexander II came “of age”, it must be connected with royalty or prestige/power in some manner.

Additionally, some artistic types claim that wearing Alexandrite helps them be more creative.  And since there’s really no way to gauge creativity, perhaps it has more than a grain of truth!  After all, plenty of expert jewellers also swear by the stone and enjoy making it the showpiece of a variety of jewelry items.

Caring for Your Special Alexandrite Jewellery

Alexandrite is very, very hard (around 8.5 on the Mohs scale).  This makes it easy to cut from a jeweller’s standpoint and even easier to care for.  It would be very difficult to “nick” this gemstone, so if you tend to be hard on your jewelry, Alexandrite could be your ideal choice!

Is an Alexandrite Perfect for You?

Because Alexandrite isn’t widely known in most circles, you’ll probably be asked quite frequently, “What kind of stone is that?”  So be prepared with a great answer if you decide that Alexandrite is going to be the centerpiece for your next bracelet, ring or necklace!

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Private Jeweller

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How to Clean your Jewellery at Home!

Published on July 31, 2010 in Bridal Jewellery, Diamonds, Engagement Rings, Gemstones, Jewellery, Tips for Home, Wedding Jewellery and YouTube. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , , .

Here is a great video for you that will demonstrate to you easily – how you can clean your diamond set, gemstone set or plain gold jewellery at home!

I take you through the steps of how you can get a semi professional clean right in the comfort of your own home. Your jewellery will not be polished, but the best advantage of this technique is that all of the grime and layered on dirt will be removed. What this means for you is that the “stuff” that is caked onto your precious diamonds and gens actually gets in the way of light coming through and into the diamond or gemstone. So when this layer of grime is removed, we open the diamond or gemstone up to the full amount of light again, which will significantly enhance the sparkle and brightness of the jewellery you are wearing.

This is best done a little while before you go out to that special party, or event, it will only take you a couple of minutes to do so it really is quick and easy!

Please note CAREFULLY the instructions contained within the video as they must be adhered to for the best result.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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The Beauty of the Pearl; A Series Part I

Published on July 24, 2010 in Freshwater, Keshi, Pearls and South Sea. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , .

In my jewellery profession, there are a number of different stones and metals that combine to create true works of art – worn for both pleasure and purpose by my clients. One of the most exotic items included among these gems is the pearl. As the variety of pearls is vast, I have dedicated a series of posts to explore different pearls and the beauty they bring to you – the wearer.

Pearls are something that truly emulates miracles in nature, the idea of something so beautiful emerging from a process so simple leaves many in awe. If you are not familiar with the birth of a pearl, they are the result of a biological process inside a living creature – an oyster. (While clams and mussels also have the ability to produce a pearl, those will be discussed in a future post in this series on the pearl.)

As an oyster is a living creature; it moves, grows and eats just like other living creatures. The two valves (one part of a two-part shell) usually stay open to allow the oyster to eat. This process can sometimes also allow a foreign substance to get between the shell and the mantle, or the organ that produces the oyster’s shell.

When this happens, the mantle is irritated by the foreign substance and its natural reaction is to cover the irritant with the same substance it uses to create the shell. This substance is known as nacre.

The oyster continues this process over and over, covering the irritant with a number of layers of nacre. The result is the formation of a pearl. The most valuable pearls are those that were shaped beautifully within the oyster; but not all resulting pearls are the perfectly rounded objects you find in jewelry settings. Pearls that form in uneven shapes are known as baroque pearls.

Round and unique products of nature, pearls formed perfectly through this natural process are found in a range of colors such as white, red, black, gray, blue and green. Pearls can be found all over the world, although black pearls are indigenous to the South Pacific.

Aside from their shape and color, pearls vary in a number of others ways. While we have already discussed the natural pearl, there are also cultured pearls often found on the market. The process for creating these pearls is very similar to that of the natural process, although pearl harvesters help move the creation of the pearl along by cutting a small slit in the mantle tissue and inserting an irritant.

Both cultured and natural pearls discussed here take place in saltwater environments, although pearls are also formed in fresh water. This process is different from that of saltwater pearls and requires a much closer look. Join us next time as I continue this series on pearls by diving in for a closer look at fresh water cultured pearls.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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The History of the Engagement Ring: What It Means to Love

Published on July 10, 2010 in Bridal Jewellery, Designer Jewellery, Diamonds, Engagement Rings, Jewellery and White Diamonds. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , .

Whether or not a woman is totally enamored with the size of her diamond engagement ring makes little difference to the story of its existence. Ask any female wearing one on the appropriate finger how she received the precious piece and she won’t have to dig deep to recall the moment of proposal.

While the giving of an engagement ring – complete with diamond or other stone of choice – has been a tradition now for centuries, it has not always been in practice. Like every good tradition or cultural phenomenon, this one too has its beginnings rooted in history. The story of the first engagement ring is one of love and longing and begins in 1477.

Tradition at that time required the woman (of appropriate financial means) to present her betrothed with a diamond ring. This practice was said to demonstrate trust and faith that the woman now belonged to the man and he could take her as his wife. The Archduke Maximilian of Hamburg changed tradition when he presented a diamond engagement ring to Mary of Burgundy.

The love between Mary and the Archduke was said to be so intense, they could not stand to be apart. Just before the two were set to be married, the Archduke was called to war. As an expression of his love and devotion to Mary, he created an engagement ring for her so she could keep something of him close to her while he was away.

While it is likely their love could have withstood the distance between them, the Archduke took no chances and as a result, a new tradition was born. And, even though it took roughly 100 years for the trend to truly emerge, the resulting variety of engagement rings would charm even the most fickle of brides-to-be today.

During the Renaissance period, engagement rings were often set with a single diamond still in its natural crystalline form. Other varieties included multiple diamonds cushioned in settings of rosettes, letters or fleur-de-lys. Inscriptions inside the rings were common and included love notes or posies.

The arrival of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries brought along the popularity of the gimmel ring. This unique set was made of two hoops that would slide together into one ring when it was closed. The fede (Italian for faith) ring was also popular as it was made of two clasped hands. A common centerpiece between the hands was often a rose-cut diamond heart.

During this time, it was only the very wealthy and the noble or royal couples who could afford such luxuries. Diamonds had only been discovered in India and therefore were in short supply and hard to acquire without the necessary means. As a result, many of those betrothed relied on other gems instead of the diamond, while still maintaining the traditional of the engagement ring.

This trend began to change in the eighteenth century, however, as diamonds were discovered in Brazil. Diamond jewelry entered the fashion scene and engagement rings took on a whole new look. Many engagement rings from this period of time included diamond set bows, sprays of flowers and crowned hearts.

Diamond solitaire engagement ring

The importance of the diamond engagement ring took on new meaning in the nineteenth century. The Industrial Revolution created much wealth and newly discovered African diamond mines made the gems available to more people. Popular themes throughout the century surrounded sentiment until Tiffany introduced the six-prong solitaire in 1886.

Over the last 100+ years, engagement rings have taken on many shapes, forms and even stones. An engagement ring is considered a true reflection of the personal taste and style of the woman who wears it, while demonstrating the love and promise between her and the man who presented it.

The engagement ring was traditionally worn on the right hand as the fourth finger was believed to contain a vein that traveled all the way from the heart. This practice – which started in the Greek culture – truly joined the man and the woman at heart. In other cultures, the fourth finger on the left hand is considered to be the proper placement to join the two.

As a society today, we still view the engagement ring as the promise of the intention to marry. It is an important step in the ownership of your own life and seldom has a woman walked down the isle who has not dreamed of her ideal engagement ring. As this emblem was once believed to unite the man and the woman at the heart, it is still a symbol of a love that cannot be broken.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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Elephant Emerald Found!

Published on July 10, 2010 in Emeralds and Gemstones. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , .

WOW!

Emerald - The 6225 carat Elephant Emerald

This is all I can say when I see news of a find like this… I mean 6225 carats of emerald…

Gemfields, one of the world’s leading coloured gemstone producers, has announced the discovery of a 6225 carat rough emerald at its Kagem mine in Zambia.

The emerald was recovered during normal mining operations last month and is now being examined by Gemfields’ experts to “establish a clearer understanding of its value and significance”.

Emerald - Elephant Emerald

For the full story click on the link above and enjoy the read!

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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32-carat diamond sells for $8.3m at US auction

Published on July 2, 2010 in Designer Jewellery, Diamonds, Jewellery and White Diamonds. 0 Comments Tags: , , , .

A square, 32.01-carat emerald-cut diamond that US billionaire philanthropist Leonore Annenberg bought for her 90th birthday has sold for $US7.7 million ($8.3 million) at auction in New York!

Diamond - 32.01ct sells for US$8.3M at Christie's auction

The big diamond “combines the best of the four C’s: top colour, perfect clarity, ideal cut and excellent weight”, said Francois Curiel, international head of Christie’s jewels. Getting these kinds of specifications in a large or oversize (5cts plus) diamond is not common. So there in lies the value of this kind of diamond, especially if you are looking for an investment quality diamond. I am not saying that all diamonds of this size and quality need to be an investment diamond, they are simply one of the best things to look at in the world! When diamonds start approaching this kind of quality the amount of fire and sparkle coming out of them is something to behold…

Annenberg purchased the ring for herself to mark her 90th birthday, Christie’s said. It was delivered by armed guards to her Rancho Mirage, California, home from the Beverly Hills jeweller’s store, it said. She was thrilled whenever someone came by to admire it, the auction house said. Imagine that! Having to get armed guards to deliver one of your pieces of jewellery… wouldn’t that be something!

Here is the link to the full story on this magnificent diamond

http://www.smh.com.au/executive-style/luxury/32carat-diamond-sells-for-83m-at-us-auction-20091022-h9vx.html

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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Hand-Me-Down Diamond rings

Published on May 12, 2010 in Designer Jewellery, Diamonds, Engagement Rings, Hand-made Jewellery, Jewellery and Wedding Jewellery. 1 Comment Tags: , , , , , , , , , , .

What to Do with an Unexpected… and Outdated… Hand-Me-Down Diamond ring

It’s touching and meaningful when a relative presents you with a diamond ring that’s been in your family for years.  But what do you do when the diamond ring is… well… let’s just say “outdated”?

At this point, you have a few options:

a)     You can pretend that you love the diamond ring and wear it only when you know you’ll be seeing the person who gave it to you.

b)    You can pretend you love the diamond ring and put it into your jewellery box, never to have it see sunlight again.

c)     You can tell the person that you appreciate the gesture but would rather not have the diamond ring.

d)    You can be creative and use the basic elements of the diamond ring to craft an entirely new diamond ring that’s completely yours!

Obviously, I don’t recommend (a), (b) or (c).  If you choose (a) or (b), you’ll be wasting a perfectly good diamond!  And if you choose (c), you’ll probably hurt someone’s feelings (never a smart idea!)  That leaves you with option (d), which I feel is the ideal way to have the best of all worlds.

A diamond ring that’s in an outdated setting is nothing new to expert jewellers nor is it something that cannot be fixed.  Truly, we see this kind of “problem” on a somewhat regular basis.  Many women (and men) come to us specifically to turn what is old into something modern, fresh and wearable.

There’s no one way to create a new piece of jewellery from your heirloom diamond ring, which is why I always include an in-depth consultation with individuals who want to revitalise a drab diamond ring.

Sometimes, they simply want to add some other gemstones to increase the value of the ring; other times, they want to remove elements of the ring to show off a precious diamond.  Occasionally, clients even want a large diamond ring to be disassembled, the diamond to be cut into several smaller diamonds, and the ring to be reassembled in a contemporary fashion.

Don’t allow a beautiful diamond ring to languish in a box!  If you’ve been named the recipient of a piece of jewellery that could use a professional “makeover”, consider it an honor, even if the piece of jewellery is garish, out-of-date or simply not your style.  Turn that “ugly duckling” into a beautiful swan that can be worn with pride!

To find out more about just how we can turn the “ugly duckling” into a beautiful swan click on the link to our designer jewellery page and get in touch with me from there.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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Designing your Engagement Ring

Published on May 5, 2010 in Bridal Jewellery, Designer Jewellery, Diamonds, Engagement Rings, Hand-made Jewellery and Wedding Jewellery. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , .

Designing your own Engagement Ring

A marriage proposal is one of the most important and personal events of a lifetime.  A very special engagement ring will reflect the significance of this event.  When you become engaged, you and your partner can create a lasting symbol of your unique love for each other with a custom engagement ring design. With the help of an experienced jeweller, the process of designing a custom engagement ring will bring you and your loved one closer and help you create a ring that both of you will treasure forever.

The Design Process

Once you’ve decided to create an engagement ring that will reflect you and your partner’s personalities and taste, the next step is to consult a jeweller who specializes in custom engagement ring design.  An experienced jeweller has the technical expertise required to guide you through the design process.  Your jeweller will explain the process to you in simple terms and make sure you have input at every step.  You will gain an understanding and appreciation of how much is involved in custom designing an engagement ring.

Your jeweller will help you make a series of important design decisions related to ring design, including:

  • The type of stone – Diamonds are a traditional choice for engagement rings, but a truly unique design can be created using other types of stones.  Emeralds, rubies and pearls can be striking alternatives to diamonds.
  • The size and shape of the diamond or gemstone – Once the type of stone is chosen, your jeweller can recommend suitable sizes and shapes.  When recommending a diamond or gemstone, your jeweller will take into account your personalities, what you want to communicate through your engagement ring and a host of other considerations.
  • The style of the setting – The design details of the setting will have a major impact on the overall style and look of the ring.  The setting can be traditional, with a clean and crisp look that will allow your diamond or gemstone to sparkle with its own “fire and brilliance” or it may be embellished with side stones, engraving or filigrees, adding more detail and intrigue to the design.
  • The metal used for the setting – The setting design, the diamond and gemstones used and the ring budget will determine the best metal for the engagement ring.

After you have expressed your design preferences, your jeweller will create a custom design for your approval.  Many couples have seen another ring that they want to copy, or they may want to combine 2 or 3 design elements from other rings.  If this is the case with your ring design, feel free to bring in drawings or photos to give your jeweller an idea of what you have in mind.  A talented jeweller will incorporate these suggestions into a single cohesive ring design, adding any details that may be needed to complete the design and convey what you would like to have represented in your ring.

The Surprise Engagement Ring

A marriage proposal and engagement ring are often planned as a surprise.  In this case, the design decisions will be made solely by the man.  His fiancée’s lifestyle, looks, body size and shape, personality and taste in jewellery should be taken into account when designing a custom engagement ring.  Family members or close friends can be a great help in creating a design that will be cherished for a lifetime.

Wedding Band Considerations

The design for your wedding bands should be considered when designing your engagement ring, especially if a bridal set consisting of the two rings is desired.  Using similar stones, metals and design motifs is the best way to tie together the engagement and wedding rings.

Generally speaking, if you use a similar design in both engagement ring and wedding bands, you will gain the benefit of having them look they were designed together at the same time.  When the engagement and wedding ring are worn together they will truly look like a matched set and not two unmatched rings that were bought at different times and places and thrown together.

Custom Engagement Ring Budget

You and your partner need to be aware that a custom designed ring may cost a bit more than purchasing a mass market existing design due to the exclusivity of having an engagement ring designed specifically for you.  It’s important to establish a budget and to work with your jeweller to stick with your budget.  Your jeweller will be prepared to offer many suggestions on how to stick with your budget.  Be prepared to listen to your jeweller’s suggestions and work with the options that are presented to you.

If you would like some further information on how we can design and hand craft for you a custom engagement ring click on the link and my website will give you more information.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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