Tag Archive for 'natural diamonds'

The 4C’s in Diamond Characteristics: Carat Weight

The 4C’s in Diamond Characteristics: Carat Weight

In this series of blog posts, I have been examining the brilliance and beauty of the natural diamond. I have touched on the colour, clarity and cut of the diamond. These three, along with carat weight make up the 4C’s. The 4C’s is a method by which the GIA – the benchmark in diamond grading throughout the world – compares the quality of diamonds.

In this post, let’s take a look at carat weight and how that plays into the value and desire of the diamond. The word carat is the term used to express the weight of the diamond and one carat is equal to 200 milligrams of actual weight and five carats is equal to 1 gram. Interestingly, while carat weight is used to measure other gemstones, different stones of the same weight are not necessarily the same sizes as the density of the stone plays a role in total carat weight.

When considering two equal carat diamonds, for instance, one may be cut too shallow and will appear to have a larger diameter but a smaller depth. The other diamond may be cut too deep – what is considered to be bottom heavy – and will have a smaller diameter, but will appear smaller when it is viewed from the top. In this case, both diamonds are equal in carat weight, yet look very different when viewed with the naked eye.

It is important to remember that as the diamond carat size increases, so does the diameter and depth of the diamond. As a result, a 1.00 carat diamond will not look twice as wide as a 0.50 carat diamond. At the same time, you must consider the size of the finger that will wear the diamond as a 1 carat solitaire looks much larger on a smaller finger than it will on a larger finger.

Smaller diamonds are weighed in points instead of carats. The carat weight is still the base of measurement, but the points communicate to the consumer and the jeweller how much of a whole carat is represented in the stone. In other words, there are 100 points in 1 carat and if a diamond is rated a 0.05, this means it is five one-hundredths. A 0.05 carat diamond is equal to five points.

The carat weight of the diamond will impact its value, simply because larger diamonds that are both brilliant and beautiful are much rarer. At the same time, the larger diamond is in more demand than smaller diamonds of the same quality. As a result, a larger carat diamond solitaire has more value that a diamond setting made up of multiple diamonds that total the same carat weight, but are individually smaller. Likewise, the diamond that is just less than one full carat will be less expensive than the diamond that surpasses the full-carat benchmark.

No matter what the carat weight of the diamond, its value will also take into account the cut, clarity and colour as all four combine into the 4C’s when determining the true quality and investment potential of the diamond.

I have enjoyed this series and I do hope that you have been able to learn some new and important information that will help you make the best decision when you are purchasing your next diamond – whether it be for an engagement ring or anniversary or just because…

If you are in need of expert advice, please contact me via my website, Eskae Jeweller and I will be happy to sit with you to go through the various options available in your next diamond purchase.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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507 carat rough diamond found!

WOW! is all I can say…

To be finding diamond rough of this size still amazes me – to no end…

Click on this link to read all about the 507 carat diamond that was found.

“This spectacular gemstone was recovered on Thursday 24 September and is currently with experts for analysis,” said a statement released by the London-listed company which operates mainly in Africa.

The precious stone was found alongside three other special white gems of similar colour and clarity, a large diamond of 168.00 carats and two other stones of 58.50 and 53.30 carats.

The mine which was previously owned by diamond mining giant De Beers, is renowned for the discovery of the famed Cullinan Diamond in 1905, which is part of the British crown jewels and weighed 3106 carats.

Now imagine that, finding a 3106 carat diamond in the rough… that the kind of thing dreams are made of!

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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Inclusions – Natural Imperfections Part III

In this series on inclusions, I have been examining the different elements of the natural diamond that are known as inclusions or natural imperfections. So far, I have examined clouds, feathers, cleavage, crystals and cavities.

Today, I will take a look at pinpoints, internal graining and needles. While many of these inclusions will have similar characteristics, there are also some differences we will explore here together so you better understand how these inclusions impact the beauty and value of the diamond.

Pinpoints

Pinpoints are the tiny light or dark crystals you may see in the diamond that can appear on their own or together with other crystals in clusters. When the pinpoints are gathered together in a cluster, they are known as a cloud because they can create a hazy area in the diamond. This cloud will affect the clarity of the diamond by disrupting the path of light through the diamond which in turn will also play a role in the quality grading for determining the value of the diamond.

Diamond Inclusions - Pinpoints create a cloud

Internal Graining

As diamonds are formed through a unique process, the crystals forming with the diamond take on their own characteristics. Internal graining occurs when irregular crystal growth takes place within the stone, creating internal distortions, waviness and/or a haze to the appearance of the diamond. This internal graining can easily be accompanied by an internal strain.

Internal graining is also known as grain lines or growth lines. If the grain line is colorless, it often will not affect the clarity of the diamond. If the lines are present in large masses, however, they can impact the diamond’s clarity again by disrupting the path of light through the diamond. At the same time, white or colored grain lines are known to lower the clarity grade of the diamond.

Diamond Inclusions - Internal graining

Needles

Needles are another example of internal flaws that can exist in a natural diamond. When the internal crystals are present in the form of long and thin needles, they earn the needle reference. Many needle inclusions are not visible to the naked eye, although needles that take on a particular color can be easily seen. As you can see in the photo provided, some needles can be clustered together, very apparent to the viewer in a way that vastly impacts the beauty and value of the diamond.

Diamond Inclusions - Needles within the diamond

While it is easy to assume that all inclusions will affect the quality of the diamond in a negative way, this is not always true. Instead, talk to a professional jeweller to determine whether or not the diamond of interest has any natural inclusions and how they may impact the quality of the stone. Keep in mind that most diamonds will have some form of an inclusion that gives it a unique characteristic that can at times enhance its beauty.

Believe it or not, we still haven’t covered all inclusions that could occur in a natural diamond. I will continue this series to make sure you are completely informed and educated on all the possibilities. Join me next time as I explore carbon, knots and growth tubes.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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Diamonds: Socially Significant

Rumor has it diamonds are a girl’s best friend, but have they always held such status in the eye of the beholder? While it’s true the durability, beauty, rarity and strength of the diamond make it appealing, it also stands as the ultimate symbol of love passion, elegance and glamour.

For centuries, only the wealthiest were able to own diamonds, increasing their status symbol among the rich. In today’s society, diamonds are much more accessible, broadening their appeal for the masses. Even today, however diamonds have saturated the global market, they are viewed as status symbols; the cut and quality of the diamond demonstrating investment made.

This widespread appeal was sparked by the innovative marketing strategy launched by De Beers in the 1930s. This campaign elevated the diamond from the focal point on engagement and wedding rings to the gem of status among those in the public eye. This campaign included the presentation of diamonds to Hollywood starlets, photo shoots and movie productions, asking that the jewels be included in photo opportunities, cover layouts and movie scenes.

In 1947, the same company launched the “A Diamond is Forever” campaign that is still well and alive today, demonstrating the eternal status of love and social placement the diamond represents. While these marketing campaigns launched a whole new home for diamonds among jewelry lovers everywhere – married or not – they also unwittingly created another social platform for establishing status for years to come.

In today’s materialistic society, the classes are not as clearly defined as they once were in previous generations. When De Beers launched their first campaign, cars were not owned by nearly every citizen in an urban area; clothing was not piling up at second hand stores; and flat screen televisions weren’t even a figment of anyone’s imagination.

Today, the possessions of the middle class easily emulate those of the rich, making it more difficult to clearly identify social status. When diamonds enter the picture, however, they are able to take the similarities and separate the two. Diamonds remain today one of the most distinguishable status symbols available, found in mother-baby diamond tennis bracelet sets, 4 carat emerald cut right-hand rings and even the man’s diamond stud earrings.

Each of these items can be considered a symbol of the individual’s status in society, business and life. Many will view their diamond purchase and ownership as a demonstration of success, proof they have arrived into a status that most only dream of and never achieve. Diamonds represent a brilliant beauty that can have no bounds when money is no object.

No matter what the intention is for the purchase of the diamond, the selection of shape, cut and colour depends greatly upon the status it is meant to project. Diamonds truly are a girl’s best friend and a status symbol of love, wealth and happiness. The beauty is that the wearer of the piece gets to decide just what he or she wishing to communicate.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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Inclusions – Natural Imperfections Part II

Inclusions – Natural Diamond Imperfections Part II

To offer you insight into different imperfections – or inclusions – that are often found in the natural diamond, we have focused a series of posts on these characteristics often inherent in a mined diamond. In our first post, we looked at the clouds and feathers, understanding how to identify them on sight and what they can mean for the value of your stone. Now, we will examine crystals, cavities and cleavage.

Crystals

While it may seem unusual that a crystal within the natural diamond is considered to be an inclusion, anything that affects the way light passes through the stone is seen as an imperfection. It is a possible a crystal can enhance the diamond’s visual properties. In truth, a crystal can have a wide array of influence on the appearance of the stone.

Crystals within a natural diamond are often a small diamond trapped inside a larger diamond. Some have called the crystal the undigested gemstone, but not all crystals are diamonds. Crystals within the diamond can also be a garnet, diopside, spinel, olivine, calcite, iron oxides or even silica.

It is common for customers to view the crystal in a favorable light – literally. Some have described the crystal as a baby diamond, while others love the uniqueness of the tiny garnet inside the diamond. Crystals have also been referred to as needles, clouds and pinpoints, although each of these inclusions has its own characteristics that will vary from a true crystal inclusion.

Cavities

Much like a cavity in the mouth, when referring to a diamond, this inclusion is a large or deep opening in the diamond. And, like the tooth cavity, the diamond cavity is generally caused by human intervention. A cavity can occur when a feather or pinpoint already exists on the stone and the polishing process causes the inclusion to worsen, leaving a hole or opening in the stone.

It is important to note that a cavity is not the same thing as a chip. A cavity will generally have drag lines visible to one side of the cavity in the location where miniscule diamond particles have been dragged across the surface of the diamond by the polishing wheel. The hole of the cavity is clearly defined when the blemish removed is a crystal as this inclusion caused the basis of the cavity in the formation of the stone.

Cleavage

Like crystals and cavities, cleavage can be damaging to the natural diamond. Cleavage is a straight crack along the stone without any feathering. If the length of the cleavage is long enough, it has the potential to split the diamond apart.

This split generally only happens if the diamond is hit at the right angle, but the potential for damage still affects the integrity of the stone. If the cleavage cannot be seen when a diamond is viewed in the face up position, it is not considered a serious impact on clarity rating.

The inclusions mentioned here are not all natural imperfections found in a diamond, as the cavity certainly needs human assistance to appear. What is important to consider is that any of these imperfections can affect the visual brilliance, quality and value of your stone.

We will continue to examine the different inclusions you may encounter in searching for the perfect stone. Check back next time as we examine pinpoints, needles and internal graining.

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‘Vivid pink’ diamond sells for record $11.7 million

‘Vivid pink’ diamond sells for record $11.7 million

This is a slightly older article that I found again recently while doing some research for a client. It points to the fact that the coloured diamond market was able to pick itself up again during the middle of the 2009 GFC. testament to the inherent value and investment worth of such a diamond.

http://www.smh.com.au/executive-style/luxury/vivid-pink-diamond-sells-for-record-117-million-20091202-k4yd.html

The article also goes on to talk about some of the previous sales at auction for these wonderful and rare diamonds, they highlight the fact that coloured diamonds generally used to fetch about US$1M per carat, and now that this barrier has been broken they are expecting to see the price per carat rise -however in time.

There is plenty of research and available information that points to coloured and pink diamonds in particular being some t=of the worlds best investments available. The Sovereign Society, from Scotland, an organisation that gives legal asset protection advice to its clients recently advised them that “coloured diamonds are the worlds most concentrated form of wealth. A coloured diamond portfolio of any size can be easily and legaly transported in almost anywhere in the world, then sold in most major cities around the globe.”

You do not need a significant space to keep your diamonds, in fact a wallet of any size could actually hold many hundreds of thousands of dollars to several millions of dollars worth of coloured diamonds, so transporting them is easy and can be very convenient.

The real value of a coloured or pink diamond portfolio is that since 1949 their value has increased EVERY year by an average of 15%. This means that roughly every 5-6 years they double in value.

Yes thats right double in value… every 5-6 years…

So the question becomes – when would now be a good time to start purchasing coloured diamonds?

If you are interested in something like this, then you will need to get in touch with me via my website Eskae Jeweller and I will be able to help you find the best fit for your needs and budget.

Sam Kritsotakis – Your Private Jeweller

Eskae Jeweller.

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The 4C’s in Diamond Characteristics: Colour

A natural diamond is known as the most brilliant and beautiful stone in the world. Diamonds are also rare and can also be very valuable. In a series of posts, we are examining how jewellers and consumers compare quality in a diamond. The GIA – the benchmark in diamond grading throughout the world – operates on a universal grading system and the 4C’s, which are cut, clarity, colour and carat weight.
In our last post in the series, we discussed the cut of the diamond. Now we will examine colour and how it impacts the presence and value of your stone. Chemically speaking, a pure and perfect diamond is completely transparent with no hue or colour. In reality, the perfect diamond is nearly non-existent and therefore it is important to understand how colour impacts the diamond itself.

The colour of the diamond is determined by the chemical impurities or structural defects (inclusions) in the crystal lattice. Diamonds can range in color from a steel gray to a red or any other colour you can imagine. The tissue impurities or structural defects of the diamond cause the different colours.

To simplify, diamonds are scientifically classified into two different types based on the nature of their impurities and how these impurities impact the absorption of light:

  • Type I diamonds have nitrogen atoms as their main impurity. When these atoms are in pairs, they have no impact on the colour of the diamond. Atoms in large, even-numbered aggregates create a yellow to brown tint. Nitrogen atoms dispersed throughout the diamond in isolated sites give the stone an intense yellow or the occasion brown tint. Type I diamonds have Fluorescence and visible absorption spectrum.
  • Type II diamonds do not have measurable nitrogen impurities and absorb light in a different region of the infrared. Type II diamonds transmit in the ultraviolet below 225 nm. Structural anomalies through the creation of the crystal can cause a pink, red or brown colour. When boron is scattered within the diamond, the stone can have a light blue colour. Varying quantities of radiation exposure can cause a diamond to have a green colour.

To classify the diamond according to colour, the GIA relies on an examination of the diamond next to a master set of colour comparison stones. Colour ranges from the best grade of D, down to Z. The cleanest colour is between D and G and will give a diamond significantly more fire.

As the GIA rates the value of the diamond according to cut and colour, D or E diamonds are more valuable than R or Y as high-colour diamonds are rarer, which limits supply; and the bright white appearance of high-color diamonds is sought by consumers, which drives demand.

Colour is truly the heart of the diamond, while cut will bring out the best quality of that colour. To get the most value and enjoyable viewing out of your diamond, aim for a colour grading of G and above. This will ensure you get the presentation you hope for in your diamond, while also extending the value of your investment.

Now that you have a better understanding of the cut and colour of the diamond and how they are considered in determining the value of the stone, we will next take a look at clarity and its role in the 4 C’s.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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Diamonds – How Are They Formed?

Natural diamonds are one of the most beautiful and brilliant elements ever produced. It is in the creation of the diamond that makes it so rare and valuable. Diamonds can be created within a lab setting, but to achieve the “Fire and Brilliance” present in a natural diamond; it takes time, intense pressure, significant heat and carbon.

The unique beauty found in the natural diamond is achieved in the process of its creation, which takes place 75-120 miles below the surface of the earth where temperatures can range from 900ºC to 1300ºC and pressure is 50,000 times that of atmospheric pressure. Diamonds are the only gems known to man that are made of a single element: carbon.

To form a diamond, carbon escapes from the melting of pre-existing rocks in the Earth’s upper mantle. An overabundance of carbon atoms exist in the mantle and temperature changes in the upper mantle will force the atoms deeper and new rocks are formed when the temperature decreases. When the proper pressure and chemistry are in place, the atoms will combine their cubic molecular form to ultimately create diamond crystals.

Diamonds are created along with cratons, deep keel-like roots of old stable continental crust. Cratons are formed near the bottom of plates at the same time and location as the formation of the diamond. Diamonds will remain among the cratons unless they are brought closer to the earth’s surface through natural processes.

This process takes place deep below the surface of the earth and without some form of intense pressure to bring the diamonds closer to the surface; they would remain out of reach. Volcanic eruptions provide the necessary force to dislodge the diamond crystals, which will then make their way to the surface through pipes and channels that contain the magma from the volcano.

Diamond deposits that make it to the surface of the earth are called Kimberlite Pipes or Blue Ground. Overtime, erosion can move diamond deposits to riverbeds, which are known as Alluvial Deposits. It is said that every 100 tons of mud produces one carat of a diamond, which will literally be a diamond in the rough.

Geologists estimate that it takes anywhere from 1 billion to 3.3 billion years to complete the entire process of creating a single natural diamond. This timing is estimated to represent 25-75 percent of the life of the earth, indicating that diamonds have been in at least the formation process for nearly as long as the earth has been in existence. This fact alone lends to the unique characteristics of the stones.

The beauty of the natural diamond is certainly something that is created by nature and the brilliance achieved depends completely on the circumstances of the stone’s creation billions of years ago. When that natural diamond is placed in an appropriate setting, the bearer of the stone is truly wearing a timeless work of art.

Sam Kritsotakis – Your Private Jeweller

Eskae Jewellery

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Inclusions – Natural Imperfections

To those who have enjoyed a love of diamonds, you understand the pleasure in viewing the natural diamond is in how the light passes through the gem, creating fire and brilliance as a dance of color and light will radiate from the stone. While flawless stones are known to create the best light show, the process in which diamonds are created lends to a less than flawless outcome.

In the process of creating the diamond, it is common for inclusions to be present that will affect the way light passes through the diamond. Inclusions can also result from diamond enhancement procedures, which include laser lines, used to drill out inclusions that will then be filled with a silicon-like substance to enhance the diamond’s visual properties. Often considered to be blemishes to the natural beauty of the diamond, inclusions can also impact the strength and durability of the stone.

It is common within the diamond industry to refer to inclusions as “internal characteristics” when describing the growth crystals that are unique to that particular diamond. Inclusions occur within the stone and are often referred to as flaws as they separate the diamond from perfection. In this post we will examine the inclusions Clouds and Feathers.

Clouds


Clouds resemble a gray overcast sky when they are present in a diamond, but not always to the naked eye. Clouds are known as a dense grouping of tiny pinpoints that create a cloudy zone that may or may not resolve as individuals pinpoints when the stone is magnified 10 times. The cloud generally consists of three or more pinpoint-sized diamond crystals located in close proximity and rarely impact the strength of the diamond.

While clouds are common, a single cloud should not cover a third or more of the diamond or it will affect the visual appearance of the diamond. On a diamond grading report, clouds are indicted as circles or formations comprised of small red dots or pinpoints. While the majority of clouds are translucent, the visibility of the cloud can vary depending upon the light source used to evaluate the cloud.

Feathers


Feathers are a much more serious inclusion as they not only impact the visual appearance of the diamond, but also its strength if they reach the surface of the stone. Feathers are essentially tiny fractures in the diamond. In a grading report, the feather is generally plotted with tiny red lines or hash marks.

Feathers are not always a cause for concern, unless they break the surface of the stone or impact the brilliance of the diamond as light passing through its facets. A professional will examine the diamond closely by “breaking” it into two halves on a diagram. If the feathers run through both “halves” of the diamond, this indicates the feathers run the gamut of the stone. Such a feather could cause the diamond to crack under undue pressure.

The important think to remember is that this crack “might” happen; I am not guaranteeing that it will. Instead, I am advising you to be careful and take your time when evaluating a diamond with a feather inclusion.

There are still many inclusions to explore. Check back with us next time as we look at included crystals, cavities and cleavage.


[1] www.gemnation.com/images/clarity/clouds3.jpg

[2] www.gemnation.com/images/clarity/clouds3.jpg

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Natural Diamonds vs. Cubic Zirconia; Part III

In this recent series of exploring the differences between natural diamonds and cubic zirconias (CZ), we have examined the toughness, hardness, dispersion, weight and colour of each of these stones. While we have identified glaring differences between the quality of the CZ when compared with the natural diamond, perhaps the most fascinating differences are in their simple creation.

The Creation of the Synthetic CZ

For generations, scientists have explored how to re-create the natural diamond in such a way that the synthetic could easily be substituted for the real thing. Simple class couldn’t come close to the brilliance of a natural diamond, but the cubic zirconia does a pretty good job of impersonation.

As the crystalline form of zirconium dioxide, the cubic zirconia is a synthesized material that is hard, optically flawless and usually colorless. Since 1976, this gem has been considered the most aggressive competitor against diamonds and is sometimes marketed under the brand name, “Diamonique.”[1]

While nature creates the perfect environment for the creation of a beautiful diamond, man must take the reigns when it comes to the CZ. During the synthesis of the cubic zirconia, zirconium oxide will create monoclinic crystals in a stable environment. To create that environment, a stabilizer must be used when the zirconia is heated to an impressive 2750 degrees Celsius in order to control the growth of the crystals.

Once the zirconia melts, a thin shell is left behind that remains solid as it is cooled by the water in the copper fingers. In this process, the zirconia and the stabilizing oxide are added. To achieve the desired uniformity in the stone, the contents are kept molten for a number of hours. While it is a proven process, it is one that takes precision and focus to produce a gem perfect enough to pass as a diamond substitute. [2]

The Creation of a Brilliant Natural Diamond

The creation of a natural diamond requires two important elements: carbon and time. When these two elements are combined under high pressure and high temperatures, a diamond can eventually emerge. The majority of natural diamonds are formed under such conditions in the earth’s mantle.

It is estimated that it takes from 1 billion to 3.3 billion years to complete the creation of the natural diamond. When this process is complete, the diamond must be brought closer to the surface of the earth in order to be mined – an action that also relies on nature. Deep volcanic eruptions can bring a diamond closer to the surface or continental plates can collide to push diamonds and other minerals upward. [3]

Extreme geological conditions are necessary to form a natural diamond. The temperature must be greater than 800 degrees Celsius and the pressure must be 50,000 times atmospheric pressure. Such conditions on earth only exist at 150km to 200km below the surface.

In such conditions there exists cratons, deep keel-like roots of old stable continental crust. These cratons formed near the bottom of plates at the same time and location as the formation of diamonds. Among the cratons, diamonds will remain unless they are brought to the surface through natural processes. [4]

While we have discussed that the brilliance, toughness and pure value of the diamond surpasses the cubic zirconia every time, perhaps the most important element of consideration is the fact that the natural diamond is rare. CZ stones can be created time and again, while there is a finite number of natural diamonds available and the waiting list for the next round is beyond our comprehension.


[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cubic_zirconia

[2] http://www.catalogs.com/info/clothing/what-is-cubic-zirconia.html

[3] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamond#Formation_in_cratons

[4] http://www.which-diamonds.com/diamondcreation.html

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