Tag Archive for 'natural diamonds'

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The 4C’s in Diamond Characteristics: Colour

A natural diamond is known as the most brilliant and beautiful stone in the world. Diamonds are also rare and can also be very valuable. In a series of posts, we are examining how jewellers and consumers compare quality in a diamond. The GIA – the benchmark in diamond grading throughout the world – operates on a universal grading system and the 4C’s, which are cut, clarity, colour and carat weight.
In our last post in the series, we discussed the cut of the diamond. Now we will examine colour and how it impacts the presence and value of your stone. Chemically speaking, a pure and perfect diamond is completely transparent with no hue or colour. In reality, the perfect diamond is nearly non-existent and therefore it is important to understand how colour impacts the diamond itself.

The colour of the diamond is determined by the chemical impurities or structural defects (inclusions) in the crystal lattice. Diamonds can range in color from a steel gray to a red or any other colour you can imagine. The tissue impurities or structural defects of the diamond cause the different colours.

To simplify, diamonds are scientifically classified into two different types based on the nature of their impurities and how these impurities impact the absorption of light:

  • Type I diamonds have nitrogen atoms as their main impurity. When these atoms are in pairs, they have no impact on the colour of the diamond. Atoms in large, even-numbered aggregates create a yellow to brown tint. Nitrogen atoms dispersed throughout the diamond in isolated sites give the stone an intense yellow or the occasion brown tint. Type I diamonds have Fluorescence and visible absorption spectrum.
  • Type II diamonds do not have measurable nitrogen impurities and absorb light in a different region of the infrared. Type II diamonds transmit in the ultraviolet below 225 nm. Structural anomalies through the creation of the crystal can cause a pink, red or brown colour. When boron is scattered within the diamond, the stone can have a light blue colour. Varying quantities of radiation exposure can cause a diamond to have a green colour.

To classify the diamond according to colour, the GIA relies on an examination of the diamond next to a master set of colour comparison stones. Colour ranges from the best grade of D, down to Z. The cleanest colour is between D and G and will give a diamond significantly more fire.

As the GIA rates the value of the diamond according to cut and colour, D or E diamonds are more valuable than R or Y as high-colour diamonds are rarer, which limits supply; and the bright white appearance of high-color diamonds is sought by consumers, which drives demand.

Colour is truly the heart of the diamond, while cut will bring out the best quality of that colour. To get the most value and enjoyable viewing out of your diamond, aim for a colour grading of G and above. This will ensure you get the presentation you hope for in your diamond, while also extending the value of your investment.

Now that you have a better understanding of the cut and colour of the diamond and how they are considered in determining the value of the stone, we will next take a look at clarity and its role in the 4 C’s.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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Diamonds – How Are They Formed?

Natural diamonds are one of the most beautiful and brilliant elements ever produced. It is in the creation of the diamond that makes it so rare and valuable. Diamonds can be created within a lab setting, but to achieve the “Fire and Brilliance” present in a natural diamond; it takes time, intense pressure, significant heat and carbon.

The unique beauty found in the natural diamond is achieved in the process of its creation, which takes place 75-120 miles below the surface of the earth where temperatures can range from 900ºC to 1300ºC and pressure is 50,000 times that of atmospheric pressure. Diamonds are the only gems known to man that are made of a single element: carbon.

To form a diamond, carbon escapes from the melting of pre-existing rocks in the Earth’s upper mantle. An overabundance of carbon atoms exist in the mantle and temperature changes in the upper mantle will force the atoms deeper and new rocks are formed when the temperature decreases. When the proper pressure and chemistry are in place, the atoms will combine their cubic molecular form to ultimately create diamond crystals.

Diamonds are created along with cratons, deep keel-like roots of old stable continental crust. Cratons are formed near the bottom of plates at the same time and location as the formation of the diamond. Diamonds will remain among the cratons unless they are brought closer to the earth’s surface through natural processes.

This process takes place deep below the surface of the earth and without some form of intense pressure to bring the diamonds closer to the surface; they would remain out of reach. Volcanic eruptions provide the necessary force to dislodge the diamond crystals, which will then make their way to the surface through pipes and channels that contain the magma from the volcano.

Diamond deposits that make it to the surface of the earth are called Kimberlite Pipes or Blue Ground. Overtime, erosion can move diamond deposits to riverbeds, which are known as Alluvial Deposits. It is said that every 100 tons of mud produces one carat of a diamond, which will literally be a diamond in the rough.

Geologists estimate that it takes anywhere from 1 billion to 3.3 billion years to complete the entire process of creating a single natural diamond. This timing is estimated to represent 25-75 percent of the life of the earth, indicating that diamonds have been in at least the formation process for nearly as long as the earth has been in existence. This fact alone lends to the unique characteristics of the stones.

The beauty of the natural diamond is certainly something that is created by nature and the brilliance achieved depends completely on the circumstances of the stone’s creation billions of years ago. When that natural diamond is placed in an appropriate setting, the bearer of the stone is truly wearing a timeless work of art.

Sam Kritsotakis – Your Private Jeweller

Eskae Jewellery

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Inclusions – Natural Imperfections

To those who have enjoyed a love of diamonds, you understand the pleasure in viewing the natural diamond is in how the light passes through the gem, creating fire and brilliance as a dance of color and light will radiate from the stone. While flawless stones are known to create the best light show, the process in which diamonds are created lends to a less than flawless outcome.

In the process of creating the diamond, it is common for inclusions to be present that will affect the way light passes through the diamond. Inclusions can also result from diamond enhancement procedures, which include laser lines, used to drill out inclusions that will then be filled with a silicon-like substance to enhance the diamond’s visual properties. Often considered to be blemishes to the natural beauty of the diamond, inclusions can also impact the strength and durability of the stone.

It is common within the diamond industry to refer to inclusions as “internal characteristics” when describing the growth crystals that are unique to that particular diamond. Inclusions occur within the stone and are often referred to as flaws as they separate the diamond from perfection. In this post we will examine the inclusions Clouds and Feathers.

Clouds


Clouds resemble a gray overcast sky when they are present in a diamond, but not always to the naked eye. Clouds are known as a dense grouping of tiny pinpoints that create a cloudy zone that may or may not resolve as individuals pinpoints when the stone is magnified 10 times. The cloud generally consists of three or more pinpoint-sized diamond crystals located in close proximity and rarely impact the strength of the diamond.

While clouds are common, a single cloud should not cover a third or more of the diamond or it will affect the visual appearance of the diamond. On a diamond grading report, clouds are indicted as circles or formations comprised of small red dots or pinpoints. While the majority of clouds are translucent, the visibility of the cloud can vary depending upon the light source used to evaluate the cloud.

Feathers


Feathers are a much more serious inclusion as they not only impact the visual appearance of the diamond, but also its strength if they reach the surface of the stone. Feathers are essentially tiny fractures in the diamond. In a grading report, the feather is generally plotted with tiny red lines or hash marks.

Feathers are not always a cause for concern, unless they break the surface of the stone or impact the brilliance of the diamond as light passing through its facets. A professional will examine the diamond closely by “breaking” it into two halves on a diagram. If the feathers run through both “halves” of the diamond, this indicates the feathers run the gamut of the stone. Such a feather could cause the diamond to crack under undue pressure.

The important think to remember is that this crack “might” happen; I am not guaranteeing that it will. Instead, I am advising you to be careful and take your time when evaluating a diamond with a feather inclusion.

There are still many inclusions to explore. Check back with us next time as we look at included crystals, cavities and cleavage.


[1] www.gemnation.com/images/clarity/clouds3.jpg

[2] www.gemnation.com/images/clarity/clouds3.jpg

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Natural Diamonds vs. Cubic Zirconia; Part III

In this recent series of exploring the differences between natural diamonds and cubic zirconias (CZ), we have examined the toughness, hardness, dispersion, weight and colour of each of these stones. While we have identified glaring differences between the quality of the CZ when compared with the natural diamond, perhaps the most fascinating differences are in their simple creation.

The Creation of the Synthetic CZ

For generations, scientists have explored how to re-create the natural diamond in such a way that the synthetic could easily be substituted for the real thing. Simple class couldn’t come close to the brilliance of a natural diamond, but the cubic zirconia does a pretty good job of impersonation.

As the crystalline form of zirconium dioxide, the cubic zirconia is a synthesized material that is hard, optically flawless and usually colorless. Since 1976, this gem has been considered the most aggressive competitor against diamonds and is sometimes marketed under the brand name, “Diamonique.”[1]

While nature creates the perfect environment for the creation of a beautiful diamond, man must take the reigns when it comes to the CZ. During the synthesis of the cubic zirconia, zirconium oxide will create monoclinic crystals in a stable environment. To create that environment, a stabilizer must be used when the zirconia is heated to an impressive 2750 degrees Celsius in order to control the growth of the crystals.

Once the zirconia melts, a thin shell is left behind that remains solid as it is cooled by the water in the copper fingers. In this process, the zirconia and the stabilizing oxide are added. To achieve the desired uniformity in the stone, the contents are kept molten for a number of hours. While it is a proven process, it is one that takes precision and focus to produce a gem perfect enough to pass as a diamond substitute. [2]

The Creation of a Brilliant Natural Diamond

The creation of a natural diamond requires two important elements: carbon and time. When these two elements are combined under high pressure and high temperatures, a diamond can eventually emerge. The majority of natural diamonds are formed under such conditions in the earth’s mantle.

It is estimated that it takes from 1 billion to 3.3 billion years to complete the creation of the natural diamond. When this process is complete, the diamond must be brought closer to the surface of the earth in order to be mined – an action that also relies on nature. Deep volcanic eruptions can bring a diamond closer to the surface or continental plates can collide to push diamonds and other minerals upward. [3]

Extreme geological conditions are necessary to form a natural diamond. The temperature must be greater than 800 degrees Celsius and the pressure must be 50,000 times atmospheric pressure. Such conditions on earth only exist at 150km to 200km below the surface.

In such conditions there exists cratons, deep keel-like roots of old stable continental crust. These cratons formed near the bottom of plates at the same time and location as the formation of diamonds. Among the cratons, diamonds will remain unless they are brought to the surface through natural processes. [4]

While we have discussed that the brilliance, toughness and pure value of the diamond surpasses the cubic zirconia every time, perhaps the most important element of consideration is the fact that the natural diamond is rare. CZ stones can be created time and again, while there is a finite number of natural diamonds available and the waiting list for the next round is beyond our comprehension.


[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cubic_zirconia

[2] http://www.catalogs.com/info/clothing/what-is-cubic-zirconia.html

[3] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamond#Formation_in_cratons

[4] http://www.which-diamonds.com/diamondcreation.html

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The 4C’s in Diamond Characteristics: Cut

Diamonds are one of the most brilliant and beautiful elements found on earth. And, because they are also rare, a natural diamond can also be very valuable, depending upon the quality of the diamond. To help jewellers and you to better compare quality in diamonds, the GIA – the benchmark in diamond grading throughout the world – developed a universal grading system and the 4C’s.

The 4C’s includes cut, clarity, colour and carat weight. Each of these four characteristics is important and interrelated as they are used to determine the diamond’s value. It is commonly assumed that clarity is the most important of the 4C’s, yet colour and cut actually have a more profound affect on the visual appearance of the diamond than most diamond consumers understand.

In a series of four posts, we will discuss the 4C’s and their impact on the brilliance and subsequently, the value of your diamond.

For this first post, we will take a look at the cut of the diamond and the importance of this C in the diamond’s value. The first important point in the cut of the stone is that is refers to your diamond’s proportions and angles more than the shape of the diamond you are considering for purchase.

The cut of any diamond will have three attributes:

  1. Brilliance – the total light reflected from a diamond
  2. Fire – the dispersion of light into the colours of the spectrum
  3. Scintillation – the flashes of light captured when the diamond is moved.

It doesn’t matter if a diamond is round, marquise, pear, princess or other any other shape, it gets its brilliance and scintillation by how exact the cutting and polishing of the diamond facets adhere to the ideal proportions. This process is actually worked out mathematically to deliver the optimum “Fire and Brilliance”. It also determines the amount of light that enters through the top of the diamond to be reflected and dispersed back through its top.

If a diamond is perfectly cut so that all angles and proportions are within correct guidelines, the light that enters the diamond is dispersed properly back through the diamond’s top facets. In a traditional brilliant round cut diamond, 58 facets are each precisely cut and defined and can be as small as two millimeters in diameter.

This precision is essential in the cut of the diamond or it wouldn’t be nearly as beautiful and would fail to disperse the light properly to achieve the brilliant fire display. Consider a science experiment you may have done in high school in which the light from a torch was pushed through a prism of glass or Perspex and on the other end the light would break up into the colour spectrum.

This is the exact process diamonds use to disperse and break up the light into the “Fire” that is visible when it is moved and rotated. In understanding this experiment, you understand how the “Fire and Brilliance” are achieved when the diamond cut meets the exact mathematical proportions and angles to achieve MAXIMUM sparkle.

If the stone is cut too shallow or too deep, the light entering through the top of the stone would not be allowed to escape through the bottom of the diamond and the beauty of the stone is at the very least dampened and most often lost.

Once you have a clear understanding of the importance of the cut of the diamond, you can then focus on its shape. Most diamond jewelry relies on the round brilliant diamond, and all other shapes are known as fancy. While cushions, marquise, pear, oval and emerald cuts are more traditional fancy shapes, cushions, hearts, triangles, briolette and others are gaining popularity as consumers aim to try something new.

Cut is easily referred to as the ‘forgotten’ C, but without your focus on how well the diamond is cut, it cannot meet its maximum brilliance. A diamond cannot be cut for weight or shape alone and if the stone doesn’t catch your eye or flash in the light, this is most likely due to a poor cut rather than poor quality in the stone.

The way the diamond is cut to reflect its brilliance is as important as the colour of the diamond you choose. Essentially, the cut and colour form the “heart and soul” of your diamond. Join us next time for a further look into the 4C’s as we examine Colour.

Diamond Cut - these are some of the most important factors to consider when buying a diamond.

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Diamond Certificate – Don’t Leave a Jeweller Without One

For those of you who are new the process of selecting and purchasing a natural diamond, the idea of a diamond certificate may be a foreign one. In all fairness, if you don’t understand the information within the certificate or why it is important, whether or not a diamond purchase includes the grading certificate may hold little value.

Any purchase of a diamond of any significant size should carry with it an independent certificate outlining all of the points you can find below. Generally speaking, most – if not all – diamonds of 0.30pts and above are automatically sold with a certificate due to the costs involved and the likelihood of recovering these costs; diamonds smaller than 0.30pts generally are sold without a certificate.

As you become more educated in the process throughout this post, you will come to understand what information such a certificate contains and why it is an important inclusion in any natural diamond purchase.

Price

When you are making an investment in a natural diamond, you want to have a clear understanding of what you are buying and what it is worth. Natural diamonds are priced according to their actual quality grading as written on their certificates. If you walk away from a natural diamond purchase without a certificate in hand from a respected, independent laboratory, you are not getting the quality you wanted to buy.

The characteristics of the natural diamond can have a major influence on the price of the diamond. Many of these characteristics are unseen by the naked-eye, but will be identified by an independent laboratory. Without this deal of scrutiny applied in the purchase of the natural diamond, you could easily purchase a lower quality diamond than the price is likely to reflect.

Security

In all diamond certificates, there will be a map of your diamond’s unique inclusions, much like a fingerprint that you can check. This diamond map gives you the peace of mind that IF it is ever needed, you can refer to it in case of a dispute. Some labs will even permanently laser inscribe the certificate number right on the girdle of the stone where it can be seen with a 10x jewelers’ loupe for easy identification.

With the certificate number laser inscribed on the diamond, you will be able to maintain the peace of mind that the diamond is really yours. Ideally, what I would do as a jeweller working with a laser inscribed diamond is turn the inscription so that it is visible when viewed above the location where the band and the settings meet. In taking such an approach, this way there is no need to un-set and re-set the diamond to find the certificate number, ensuring there is NO risk of damaging the diamond or setting.

Protection

While not all people who make an investment in a natural diamond think about the prospect of selling it at a later date, the value of the diamond in such a situation is something to consider when making this an investment. An independent lab certificate verifies the characteristics of the diamond and makes it much more likely that a dealer or other party will be interested in making the investment in purchasing it from you.

Now that we have explored why you want your natural diamond to have a certificate, you need to know what information is provided in the certificate and why it is important. Below you will find a list of all information on a diamond certificate and why it is important.

  • Laboratory Name – if you have not heard of the lab, research it to determine whether or not the name is of value in the industry.
  • Certificate Number – this number uniquely identifies the diamond. This number is associated with the information kept by the lab so a certificate can easily be re-issued if it is lost. If any further information is needed, the laboratory should be able to help.
  • Laser Inscription Registry – all diamonds receiving a GIA Diamond Certificate is micro-laser inscribed with its unique GIA Report number. Generally speaking, this number will read: GIA XXXXXXX.
  • Style of the Shape and Cut – shape refers to the outline of the diamond while cut refers to the facet arrangement.
  • Measurements – this information captures the diamond’s overall measurements – width, breadth, depth and diameter are calculated to the hundredth of a millimeter by a non-contact measuring device or a micrometer.
  • Size – diamonds are weighed to the thousandth of a carat with a digital measuring device and rounded to the hundredth of a carat.
  • Color – determined by examining the diamond next to a master set of color comparison stones, color ranges from the best grade of D, down to Z. The cleaner the colour – i.e.; between D and G – the more fire your diamond will have inherently. While it is possible to get very white looking H diamonds, a colour graded as G and above is where you should aim. Getting the best colour grading possible is the way to go when looking at diamonds; this is really the heart of the diamond.
  • Clarity – ranges in clarity begin at the best grade of FL, down through IF, VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2, SI1, SI2, I1, I2 until I3. To measure clarity, it is the reflection of the number, size placement and nature of inclusions and/or surface irregularities on the diamond. What I recommend for the clarity is to go for an “eye clean” diamond – which will be the clarity range of VS1 – SI1. Once you go higher than VS1 clarity, there is no real visual impact or gain. At that point, you tend to spend money on bragging rights only. The best results are seen when you spend your money on the best COLOUR and CUT grade possible.
  • Cut grade – measures how well or exact the cutting proportions and angles are in the diamond. The cutting formula to get the maximum “Fire and Brilliance” out of a diamond has been worked out mathematically, and as such the angles and proportions must be as close as possible to this formula. A diamond’s brilliance comes from how well it has been cut. The higher the quality here means that the more brilliance you will have inherently in your diamond. This ranges from excellent, very good, good and then fair or poor. With colour being the heart of a diamond, the cut grading is the soul of the diamond, combining the best possible grade for your budget.
  • Finish, polish and symmetry – finish refers to the polish of the diamond and the symmetry of the facets; polish refers to the quality of the polish on the facets; and symmetry refers to how precisely the facets are align to one another. This is measured one of four ways – excellent, very good, good and fair or poor. The higher the grading here the more brilliance your diamond will have.

Fluorescence – the diamond’s reaction to long wave ultraviolet radiation. Too strong a fluorescence can make a diamond less desirable. Generally speaking, a grading up to a “faint” fluorescence is fine as it will not affect the beauty of the diamond and is ONLY visible under UV light.

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Natural Diamonds vs. Cubic Zirconia; Part II

As we continue on our exploration of the differences between natural diamonds and cubic zirconias(CZ), we will now examine the toughness, hardness and dispersion of each of these stones. It is also important to talk about cleanliness as it is often a red flag for the experienced jeweller out to spot an imposter. [1]

Cleanliness is Not Next to Godliness

When discussing cleanliness of a diamond, this is not in reference to whether or not the stone is dirty, but rather the inside appearance of the stone. Natural diamonds gain much of their unique attributes from the inclusions within the stone. These natural features are found in natural minerals – like diamonds – and do not necessarily signal a flawed stone. A completely flawless stone under a 10-power jeweller’s loupe is most likely a cubic zirconia as the natural diamond version would be out of the financial reach of many a consumer.

How Tough is the Stone?

While cubic zirconias are known to outweigh natural diamonds nearly two to one, diamonds dominate when it comes to toughness. A material’s ability to resist breakage from a forceful impact is its toughness and diamonds tend to stand alone. In fact, the toughness of natural diamonds has been measured as 3.4 MN m-3/2; much stronger than the cubic zirconia stone, which tends to be more brittle than a natural diamond. A CZ stone can be scratched by other stones, while a diamond can only be scratched by other diamonds. [2]

Which Stone is Most Hardy?

Believe it or not, there is an abundance of conflicting information regarding the hardness of natural diamonds. It’s possible the confusion rests in the misunderstanding that this hardness is in reference to a natural mineral as diamonds are the hardest known natural material. [3] In examining the Mohs scale of hardness, natural diamonds score a 10, while the cubic zirconia is significantly softer, yet still respectfully hard, at an 8.5 rating.[4]

Dispersion – the Trick of the Eye

Dispersion is one area where the cubic zirconia is known to trick even the gemstone savvy customer. Dispersion occurs as a result of the gem’s refractive index, or how much a beam of light will bend, based on the direction in which it is passes between two different optical densities. In more basic language, dispersion is the breaking up of light into its spectral colors. A CZ stone has more dispersive power than a natural diamond – a 0.060 vs. 0.044 – creating more color and fire. Even with this difference, a CZ still cannot match the breathtaking brilliance of a natural diamond. [5]

While the toughness, hardness, dispersion and even cleanliness of the two stones are important to understand in the examination of the differences between cubic zirconias and natural diamonds; it could easily be the trip into the science of the creation of each of these gems that is the most fascinating. Check out our next post as we travel back in time.


[1] http://www.gottrocks.com/chat-cz.htm

[2] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamond

[3] http://www.diffen.com/difference/Cubic_Zirconia_vs_Diamond

[4] http://www.hsn.com/cubic-zirconia-guide_at-4579_xa.aspx

[5] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cubic_zirconia

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Natural Diamonds vs. Cubic Zirconia; Part I

In the world of fine gemstones, one of the most daunting questions among consumers is how to tell the difference between a natural diamond and cubic zirconias (CZ). To the untrained, naked eye, the less expensive could easily pass for the more exquisite, but value is not always in the eye of the beholder.

To accomplish mere flash, a CZ can easily fit the bill as it is designed to radiate light and create a spectacle of light and colour dancing off the stone. If you want to experience true brilliance and the marvel that is the natural diamond, let’s take a closer look at the differences between the gems created by nature and those fabricated in a lab.

Natural diamonds and CZ stones vary in a number of ways, including colour, weight, toughness, hardness, dispersion and even cleanliness, not to mention their creation. In truth, natural diamonds are superior to their CZ substitution, but without an understanding of the difference, it can seem a worthless investment. To begin this series, we will first examine colour and weight.

The Truth is in the Colour

In the process of searching for just the right stone, colour is an important priority. Colour is also one of the first tests for determining whether the stone is a CZ or a natural diamond. A tinge of yellow or brown is normal in natural diamonds that fall below acceptable quality standards, while cubic zirconia tends to be made entirely colourless when attempting to emulate the diamond. CZ stones are also available in a full range of colours, while only 0.01% of natural diamonds take on a more brilliant colour, enhancing the rare qualities of the stones.[1]

Expert diamond cutters will adhere to ideal proportions, causing the light to reflect from one facet to another, which is then dispersed through the top of the stone. When this light is refracted externally, it amplifies and disperses the refracted light to create a myriad of colours, concentrating the light, brilliance and lustre of the stone. The cubic zirconia, no matter the cut, has less brilliance than a diamond, but more flashes of colour. When examining the two, brilliance creates the “Wow” factor, while colour merely catches the eye.

The Scale Never Lies

Believe it or not; the cubic zirconia outweighs the natural diamond every time. In fact, the CZ is 70% heavier than the natural diamond. This is an important consideration for the price-conscious consumer who is considering the CZ purchase over the natural diamond in order to afford to larger gemstone. Purchasing the CZ over the diamond most certainly provides more stone for your dollar, but could be an impediment to purchase if the stone is too large and heavy for comfortable wear. [2]

While colour and weight provide keen insight into the differences between natural diamonds and cubic zirconia stones, this exploration of the two stones has merely just begun. Check out our next post as we examine the toughness, hardiness and dispersion of each of these stones, while also tapping into the red flag that is cleanliness.


[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamond#Color

[2] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cubic_zirconia

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