Tag Archive for 'pearl'

The Beauty of the Pearl; A Series Part III

Published on November 12, 2010 in Designer Jewellery, Eskae Private Jeweller, Pearls and South Sea. 0 Comments Tags: , , , .

This exploration of the different available pearls has taken us through the process of the creation of a pearl and the uniqueness in the freshwater cultured pearl. Now, I will take you on a different leg of this journey to the South Sea. This is a favorite stop for me as South Sea pearls are considered to be exceptional in quality.

South Sea pearls get their name from the location of the white-lipped variety of the pinctada maxima oyster – also known as the Silver Lip Oyster – which provides the perfect canvas for the South Sea pearl. The oyster is typically found around the coast of Indonesia, Australia and the Philippines. The pearls produced within the South Sea are cultured and of the saltwater variety, generally in colours of white, silver and gold.

The pinctada maxima oyster is much larger than those that typically create Akoya and freshwater pearls, ensuring that South Sea pearls are much larger. The pinctada maxima oyster is also much more rare and sensitive, making cultivation of the pearl that much more challenging. As the pinctada maxima lives and cultivates its pearls in the wild, production can be limited. With obstacles to its creation firmly in place, the South Sea pearl is more valuable than other pearls.

In addition to its larger size, the South Sea pearl is also known to offer a smoothness and roundness that is exceptional when compared with other pearls. The almost silver color of the natural, South Sea pearl is luminous, offering a unique beauty that is truly all its own. The most extraordinary and rare of the available pearls, South Sea pearls create exquisite pieces of jewellery.

When the South Sea pearl is farmed, a mother of pearl bead is placed inside the oyster to help start the process that will result in a pearl. The pearl famers often hope the bead, the right conditions and a little bit of luck will help to contribute to the creation of a perfectly round, clean, beautiful, lustrous South Sea pearl.

The unpredictability of the process involved in the forming of the South Sea pearl dictates that not all pearls will emerge from the oyster as perfectly round or the same size. A South Sea pearl that is a perfect sphere is the ideal piece, yet the slightest environmental change can lead to changes in shape, create blemishes or ensure that no pearl is created at all.

With this potential variation in the South Sea pearl, three shapes are typically found, including round, semi-round and button. Round is ideal when the shape is perfect. It is measured with a caliper and the variation in the circumference should be less than 2 percent. A semi-round pearl gives the appearance of round, yet its measured circumference is more than 2 percent. The variation in circumference on the button pearl is roughly 20 percent, yet tall buttons can also appear to be round.

There is truly no pearl as exquisite as the South Sea pearl, but our journey has not yet ended. Next, we will explore the Keshi pearl and the interesting process that leads to its creation. See you then!

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The Beauty of the Pearl; A Series Part II

Published on August 22, 2010 in Freshwater and Pearls. 0 Comments Tags: , , .

The first post in this series took a look at a natural pearl and how the process involved in its creation leads to the emergence of a beautiful work of nature. I explored the different parts of the oyster and how a foreign substance contributes to the creation of the pearl. While this natural process can produce a beautiful pearl, it is also convenient to have more at a jeweller’s disposal than what nature can produce.

As a result, we have developed the freshwater cultured pearls. A freshwater cultured pearl is one that comes from a freshwater mussel. In many markets, such pearls must be legally referred to as freshwater cultured pearls by governing bodies of commerce.

While such pearls have been produced in the United States and Japan, the production is now almost exclusive to China. This process is fascinating as it does not rely on a foreign substance to find its way into the mussel, but instead on technicians performing a grafting process on the mussel.

The grafting process requires a technician to make a small incision on the upper valve of the mussel and insert a piece of tissue from a donor mussel. This tissue is then considered to be the foreign substance by the mussel and it will begin the natural process of coating the tissue with a protective material.

While the cockscomb pearl mussel was once preferred in the Chinese cultured pearl industry for its ability to produce as many as 50 pearls, the low quality of the pearls earned them the name, “rice krispy pearls”. The favored mussel is now the triangle shell as the pearl quality is superior, even if the total quantity is fewer.

Freshwater cultured pearls are delivered to a first-stage after they are harvested from the shells of the mussels. This first stop is generally where the pearls will be cleaned and sorted according to size and shape. Once sorted, the pearls go through a standard treatment of maeshori, which includes immersion in a warm and cold chemical solution, bleach, drill and polish. (If a pearl exhibits strong coloration, it will only go through maeshori.)

When the pearls have completed the standard sorting process, they are then matched with like-sized and shaped pearls onto temporary strands. These strands are then matched again into hanks, which is a group of strands comprised of five to 10 temporary strands. At this point, the pearls are considered to be ready for the wholesale market.

Freshwater cultured pearls do differ from saltwater pearls in that they are typically not as round as saltwater pearls and do not have the same sharp luster and shine. Freshwater cultured pearls do, however, appear in a wide variety of natural colors and shapes and are more durable than saltwater pearls. They also make a nice contribution to any jewellery collection where a budget must be adhered to as they typically cost less, because of the farming aspect, than the saltwater variety.

My overall preference in the choice of pearl depends entirely on the jewelry setting and the purpose of wear. If you are making a fashion statement, freshwater cultured pearls are a logical choice. If you want to keep with tradition and display an authentic pearl, nothing compares with a saltwater pearl.

Join me next time as I take a closer look at the unique pearls found in the South Sea.

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Designing your own Custom Engagement Ring

Published on July 27, 2010 in Bridal Jewellery, Coloured Diamonds, Designer Jewellery, Diamonds, Emeralds, Engagement Rings, Jewellery, Pearls, Rubies, Sapphires, Wedding Jewellery and White Diamonds. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , , , .

Designing your own Engagement Ring

A marriage proposal is one of the most important and personal events of a lifetime.  A very special engagement ring will reflect the significance of this event.  When you become engaged, you and your partner can create a lasting symbol of your unique love for each other with a custom engagement ring design. With the help of an experienced jeweller, the process of designing a custom engagement ring will bring you and your loved one closer and help you create a ring that both of you will treasure forever.

The Design Process

Once you’ve decided to create an engagement ring that will reflect you and your partner’s personalities and taste, the next step is to consult a jeweller who specializes in custom engagement ring design.  An experienced jeweller has the technical expertise required to guide you through the design process.  Your jeweller will explain the process to you in simple terms and make sure you have input at every step.  You will gain an understanding and appreciation of how much is involved in custom designing and creation of your engagement ring.

Your jeweller will help you make a series of important design decisions related to ring design, including:

  • Diamonds – Which one is Right for you? – Your jeweller will help run you through what makes a diamond sparkle with “Fire and Brilliance” and how the different characteristics affect the value of the diamond. Diamonds are a traditional choice for engagement rings, but a truly unique design can be created using other types of stones.  Emeralds, rubies and pearls can be striking alternatives to diamonds.
  • The Size and Shape of the Diamond or Gemstone – Once the type of stone is chosen, your jeweller can recommend suitable sizes and shapes.  When recommending a diamond or gemstone, your jeweller will take into account your personalities, what you want to communicate through your engagement ring and a host of other considerations.
  • The Style of the Setting – The design details of the setting will have a major impact on the overall style and look of the ring.  The setting can be traditional, with a clean and crisp look that will allow your diamond or gemstone to sparkle with its own “fire and brilliance” or it may be embellished with side stones, engraving or filigrees, adding more detail and intrigue to the design.
  • Platinum or Gold? – Which one is Best for your Setting? – The setting design, the diamond and gemstones used and the ring budget will determine the best metal for the engagement ring.

After you have expressed your design preferences, your jeweller will create a custom design for your approval.  Many couples have seen another ring that they want to copy, or they may want to combine 2 or 3 design elements from other rings.  If this is the case with your ring design, feel free to bring in drawings or photos to give your jeweller an idea of what you have in mind.  A talented jeweller will incorporate these suggestions into a single cohesive ring design, adding any details that may be needed to complete the design and convey what you would like to have represented in your ring.

The Surprise Engagement Ring

A marriage proposal and engagement ring are often planned as a surprise.  In this case, the design decisions will be made solely by the man.  His fiancée’s lifestyle, looks, body size and shape, personality and taste in jewellery should be taken into account when designing a custom engagement ring.  Family members or close friends can be a great help in creating a design that will be cherished for a lifetime.

Wedding Band Considerations

The design for your wedding bands should be considered when designing your engagement ring, especially if a bridal set consisting of the two rings is desired.  Using similar stones, metals and design motifs is the best way to tie together the engagement and wedding rings.

Generally speaking, if you use a similar design in both engagement ring and wedding bands, you will gain the benefit of having them look they were designed together at the same time.  When the engagement and wedding ring are worn together they will truly look like a matched set and not two unmatched rings that were bought at different times and places and thrown together.

Custom Engagement Ring Budget

You and your partner need to be aware that a custom designed engagement ring may cost a bit more than purchasing a mass market existing design due to the exclusivity of having an engagement ring designed specifically for you.  It’s important to establish a budget and to work with your jeweller to stick with your budget.  Your jeweller will be prepared to offer many suggestions on how to stick with your budget.  Be prepared to listen to your jeweller’s suggestions and work with the options that are presented to you.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller -Your Private Jeweller

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The Beauty of the Pearl; A Series Part I

Published on July 24, 2010 in Freshwater, Keshi, Pearls and South Sea. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , .

In my jewellery profession, there are a number of different stones and metals that combine to create true works of art – worn for both pleasure and purpose by my clients. One of the most exotic items included among these gems is the pearl. As the variety of pearls is vast, I have dedicated a series of posts to explore different pearls and the beauty they bring to you – the wearer.

Pearls are something that truly emulates miracles in nature, the idea of something so beautiful emerging from a process so simple leaves many in awe. If you are not familiar with the birth of a pearl, they are the result of a biological process inside a living creature – an oyster. (While clams and mussels also have the ability to produce a pearl, those will be discussed in a future post in this series on the pearl.)

As an oyster is a living creature; it moves, grows and eats just like other living creatures. The two valves (one part of a two-part shell) usually stay open to allow the oyster to eat. This process can sometimes also allow a foreign substance to get between the shell and the mantle, or the organ that produces the oyster’s shell.

When this happens, the mantle is irritated by the foreign substance and its natural reaction is to cover the irritant with the same substance it uses to create the shell. This substance is known as nacre.

The oyster continues this process over and over, covering the irritant with a number of layers of nacre. The result is the formation of a pearl. The most valuable pearls are those that were shaped beautifully within the oyster; but not all resulting pearls are the perfectly rounded objects you find in jewelry settings. Pearls that form in uneven shapes are known as baroque pearls.

Round and unique products of nature, pearls formed perfectly through this natural process are found in a range of colors such as white, red, black, gray, blue and green. Pearls can be found all over the world, although black pearls are indigenous to the South Pacific.

Aside from their shape and color, pearls vary in a number of others ways. While we have already discussed the natural pearl, there are also cultured pearls often found on the market. The process for creating these pearls is very similar to that of the natural process, although pearl harvesters help move the creation of the pearl along by cutting a small slit in the mantle tissue and inserting an irritant.

Both cultured and natural pearls discussed here take place in saltwater environments, although pearls are also formed in fresh water. This process is different from that of saltwater pearls and requires a much closer look. Join us next time as I continue this series on pearls by diving in for a closer look at fresh water cultured pearls.

Sam Kritsotakis

Eskae Jeweller – Your Private Jeweller

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